Delamination

If water related as often is the case you want to make sure that is addressed first as was noted already.

greyhoundman wrote:
De lamination has appeared on right side back by end cap.Runs almost entire height of MH except for compartment area.Would like to attempt to fix myself but not sure where to start.Can I cut down edge of end cap or remove end cap.Not sure what type glue.Has anyone done this and could pass along info.Iff to big a DIY would like to know.Forgot to mention bubble varias from 2 to 12 in wide.

http://www.delamrepair.com/

sikaflex 221 is the adhesive that is used by BIG repair shops to glue on new siding.

I have had "mixed results" and will share what I have learned. When I bought mine 10 years ago it was my first MH and was not familiar with things. Both sides were delaminated under the passenger window and mirror. The right side I fixed with polyurethane glue using my Hi top van and 2x4's to apply pressure at the hinge points of the van. I made caul plates from 3/4 plywood to distribute the pressure wedging the 2x4's between the ply wood and the hinge points of the van. I chose polyurethane because it reacts with water and will foam up if moisture is present. Epoxy is a better adhesive and a stronger bond but will not adhere if the substrate is wet. I removed the window and put shims in between the outer skin and the substrate to dry it out in the sun a few days before attempting to bond the loose skin back. I did the same process for the other side accept I parked the MH next to a brick building and used car jacks instead of 2x4's for pressure this side had more delamimated area which went up to the roof line. The drivers side lasted about 5 years before I started to notice disbonding,the passenger side is still bonded after 10 years. The problem that I had was a water leak that took me a year to locate. I recaulked 1/2 doz times all the suspected areas and could not find the leak until finally I took my wife's vacuum cleaner and put the hose to blow air where I saw water dripping at the roof seam and front cap. I saw water and bubbles coming out 30 ft away at the roof seam. I fixed the leak but the delamination had already occurred. If you still decide to attempt the project it sounds like it would be easier to remove your outer skin from the rear cap and roof line the screws holding it together are probably rusted anyway and let the side wall thoroughly dry first. It will also give your a chance to replace the swelled rotted areas before bonding. I would use a good epoxy with a long pot life. This is not for the faint of heart, good luck.

Sounds like you are about to embark on an endless journey of frustration and disappointment. One of the hardest things to deal with successfully. You can search 'delamination repair' and find hundreds of posts. Make sure you repair the leak before starting the repair procedures.
We had a much smaller area on the first coach we ever owned and when I would talk to folks about repairing or how to repair it, the answer I usually got was something like, 'with the age of that coach, you might be better off to sell it and buy another'. Chances are the filon is glued to a thin sheet of plywood and the water has caused the luan plywood to disintegrate and there is nothing the glue to old onto now. Good Luck no matter what you decide

This has been discussed many times in this forum. Pretty much the
consensus is, "there is not much you can do about it". Some have glued it back in place, with mixed results. You need access to both sides to try and squeeze both sides back in place via some sort of clamping system. The type of glue/epoxy is fussy since depending on what material you have in the wall, will depend on why type of adhesive to use.

Some have reported using syringes after drilling holes and injecting the adhesive. So far, no one that I am aware of has reported back with success stories.

Here is a YouTube video on one such repair HERE