Didn't think fixing Class A was so DIFFICULT!!

When you hot wired the pump, did you disconnect the old wiring, or just connect in parallel to the old wiring? If you just hot wire the pump, leaving the original wiring in place, then you may have also been supplying power to the ECM backwards through the fuel pump wiring. Somewhere up front is not getting power to the ECM and since the ECM turns the fuel pump on and off, if the ECM does not have power, the fuel pump will not have power. If you hot wire the pump, it will effectively hot wire the ECM.

What is the fuel PSI reading at the engine compartment when the pump is running but not injecting fuel?

So we tested wiring from the fuel pump to the battery...the engine started and was running!! So we set up wiring from the fuel pump to the front with a switch to turn off the pump.

For some reason now it won't run. Pump is running now but not injecting fuel. Injectors? Sensor?? Just when we think we have it figured out....

I encounter this kind of incompetence often and it's why I replaced the fuel pump in my 1998 Winnebago Adventurer in a campground by myself. Didn't take much more than a properly sloped campsite and a harbor freight jack but man it was messy, stinky and probably took some years off my life.

Leahbyers78 wrote:
I'm looking to find out the voltage for the fuel pump. Is it a full 12 volt or is it reduced? If I can run a new power I can at least get it to the shop.

OP ... you didn't answer what it means "starts ... won't turn over". Gotta help us folks so we can help you.

It is a full 12 volts. On the fuel pump relay just jumper the Orange (12volts) and Gray (fuel pump) wires together to turn on the fuel pump.
If it works, you might want to check out the oil pressure switch (front drivers side of engine). The 10 amp ECM-BAT fuse runs the ECM and fuel pump.

I'm looking to find out the voltage for the fuel pump. Is it a full 12 volt or is it reduced? If I can run a new power I can at least get it to the shop.

Rickyrocket wrote:
You have got alot of advice ,one thing I would add is to check fuses,I once had a prob and did a r&r of the alt.just to find out it was a blown fuse!

This is very good advice for any 20 year old MH.

Over time if every connection is broken, cleaned and reconnected can save a lot of head aches. This does not have to be donr all at one time.

So far we have been lucky with out 1992 P30 chassis. 100% of all non start issues have been bad ground connections. Can be a pain but the repairs are cost free if you have a few tools and a wire brush or better yet a cordless drill with some wire brush attachments for cleaning large ground cables and studs.

One day you can open the outside frig vent door and take some time and break/make every 12v and 120v friction connection point. I do unplug the AC outlet to the frig.

Doing all the fuse blocks in any RV the same way can make trips more fun due to less down time. Higher amp fuses can even get hot enough to melt plastic fuse holders and still not blow. Over time it may act like a blown fuse but still looks good. Unseating and reseating fuses can help you find these kinds of issues before a failure sometimes. Just removing and reinstalling a fuse or other connector itself is a cleaning action. If friction connectors are easy to take apart and put back together that is a sign they are too loose and the female ends may need to be lightly recrimped with some pliers.

Owning old RV's can become less stressful as we learn more NO COST ways to keep our rigs in good working order.

You have got alot of advice ,one thing I would add is to check fuses,I once had a prob and did a r&r of the alt.just to find out it was a blown fuse!

SpinRite wrote:
Welcome, Leah,
I know this has been a disheartening beginning for your family.

Keep in mind that your RV is just a truck carrying a house around on its back. If the truck portion needs repair, you will likely be better off dealing with a truck repair place or an independent mechanic who is familiar with your year and brand of truck, rather than the RV place (which is more familiar with the 'house' portion.)

Try looking in your local CraigsList or Yelp! to find the right mechanic or truck service shop.

Also, there has been a bit of confusion over the terms "starting" and "turning over." These simple words each carry a large amount of diagnostic information and reversing their usage causes a lot of consternation in the listener.

When you turn the ignition key to 'start,' the electrical starter motor engages and begins turning the gasoline engine; this is called "cranking" or "turning over." If this works OK, it means that the battery and starter circuitry is functioning.

The main motor may "try to start" or "kick" or "fire" but still not "catch" or turn on its own without the starter. This also gives the mechanic a lot of info.

Finally, when the engine does "run," the starter is no longer needed and is released. Even if its not running properly yet, the possible causes of the problem has been greatly reduced.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery for your rig.

The only thing I might add is that in both my Breakdowns, on the road, that I was unable to repair, they happened in your state and the TRUCK mechanics we had do the service, one on the Highway one in a shop were both exceptionally well versed in TRUCKS and the price was extremely fair.

Keep your chin up you will find the issue and once you get on the road a whole new world awaits.

BOL,