Does 95 Fleetwood Jamboree Rallye have Electric Fnt Brakes?

Sounds like good advice and a good plan. Best wishes in all your changes!

UPDATE:.....UPDATE:.....UPDATE:.....UPDATE:.....UPDATE:.....UPDATE:..

First I want to thank EVERYONE who has replied to and helped me with my brake problem. I have an auto mechanic friend who came out to look at the my Motor Home and it turned out the my driver side disk brake pad had a rock that somehow had gotten lodged between the rotor and pad which caused it to drag and gouge the rotor. I also found that on the passenger side the rotor had a crack in it so I have decided to replace both rotors, pads and if the calipers need replacing, do them also.

I plan on selling my Motor Home this spring and downsize since for me I don't really need this big of a rig. I want a clear conscience that whomever buys my rig, it getting a safe and usable Motor Home. I have enjoyed my 29' but it really needs a family and not one person like myself. I plan on buying a smaller trailer and pull it with my car. That is really all I need at this point in my life.

I cannot say enough, how much I have appreciated the feedback and help I have received on this issue. Seriously.

For anyone else who may be having problems with their brakes seizing up, look for a possible rock between the pads and rotor.

Dennis

j-d wrote:
MOHO chassis uses same brakes as any DRW (Dual Rear Wheel) E350/450.

Thanks j-d, I have some decisions to make...

Dennis

MOHO chassis uses same brakes as any DRW (Dual Rear Wheel) E350/450. You might be able to get just the Rotor and not the Rotor/Hub assembly. If you do that, it'd be a good idea to have somebody put it on a brake lathe and make sure it doesn't need to be cut a little to run true. It will likely run true if you clean the mounting surfaces thoroughly and torque the screws carefully.
Just make sure the Wheel Studs are long enough to let you mount your wheel simulator retaining nuts, if that's the setup you have. If your best deal on that part includes short studs, you'd only have to have a shop replace two of them with longer ones to accommodate the retaining nuts.

Just looked at Autozone and they have only the complete Hub/Rotor assembly. They show one for 2-wheel ABS and one for 4-wheel ABS. We know your chassis has sensors on the front, so I'd take that as 4-wheel. Might be wrong but I believe any 2-wheel ABS was Rear Wheel ABS, called Rear ABS or RABS. When you get the rotor assembly off, you'll see a toothed "wheel" surface inside the hub. That interfaces with the tips of the sensors you're seeing the wires for. And that's the hub you want. Wish they'd say "4-wheel" or "Rear Wheel" or "Front Wheel" instead of "2-wheel."

You'll be packing bearings, so be sure to get High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease. The old-fashioned stuff that worked with drum brakes will melt and run out of the bearings in a disk brake vehicle. They actually sell a "Ford Approved" flavor. Not sure that's essential, but Hi-Temp indeed is.

My guess is you'll need pads and probably calipers. Ideally hoses too, but don't forget the lube for the caliper slides, again Hi-Temp.

You'll need a 21mm or 7/8" wrench, ideally a socket with breaker bar, to get those caliper mounts off to remove your rotors.

Might want to check with Quad Van and see what they have that they'd sell you less than the full Axle-and-Brake "kits" that Bryan and I bought. Just the Brake parts. Just remember you need the pre-2008 parts if you don't want to replace and upgrade both sides, and there might not be any of those laying around. Gotta tell you, if you're gonna pull the whole rotors off, need at least one rotor, and your calipers/pads are suspect, I'd get a "Brake Kit" (without axles and radius arms, upgrade to 2008+, and improve brake performance while you do the repairs.

If you don't know how to adjust the wheel bearings, look it up or ask us. BTW, with a "Kit" I didn't even have to buy seals or pack the bearings. Those chassis are delivered on carriers, so essentially zero miles on the parts.

As I mentioned in my first post.. I have a 1995 Fleetwood Jamboree Rallye 29 ft MH. It has a Ford 460, E300 chassis. I found out that I need to replace the passenger side front rotor on my MH.

Can I get a standard E300 chassis disk brake rotor as a replacement or do I need to get a rotor specifically made for my motorhome?

Dennis

Toot Mc wrote:
Two wires are for ABS sensor on
anti-lock brakes....

Thanks for the info Toot. I appreciate it. I've learned a lot since starting this post... Grin

Dennis

Two wires are for ABS sensor on
anti-lock brakes.

In damp weather Brake Rotors are very high temp steel and rust very easy. the rust can actually grow into shoe pads very slightly and bond pads to Rotors especially in damp clients.

If you look at a cars Rotors through the spokes or holes in wheels you can see rust after 1 day or so.

there is nothing wrong with your brakes. if they are completely locked up take off the wheel rim, take a punch and hit the bracke pads on the metal pad frame and the rim and tire will probably rotate then. drive the E-450 for two blocks and hit the brakes pritty heavy and you will notice the rotors will be all new and shinny again

Here in the Houston Texas area we have lots of humidity. when I put my E-450 Coach House in storage I go over to storage shed once a month start Gen set to exercise and drive my Coach house around the for 10 miles or so to keep my brakes from freezing. Note: every other year I take the wheels off (don't take the rotors off) remove the Calipers and grease them. (you can buy caliper grease at O-Rilies or pep boys or some place like that.) instructions included.

due to our High Humidity I also flush and replace the Brake fluid because the Brake fluid absorbs humidity from the air and small amounts of water accumulate in brake cylinders and if you get in heavy traffic or go down a mountain pass the water in fluid will BOIL when brakes get real hot, The steam will compress. you will not have any brakes whatsoever. when you get stopped you can wait 30 minutes or so and your brakes will come back after the water vapor has condensed back to water witch not compress. Always Put Ford Motorcraft Brake fluid in the system not a substitute.

I had this happen to me on two different occasions until I went to ford mechanics and ask them what was happening.

j-d wrote:
Take a look ...

Thank you j-d and everyone, I appreciate all the information and help you've all give me. Now, it's time for me to get to work. LOL

Dennis

Take a look at This Thread and Also This One

So you know the players:
carringb was the first OP to report doing this project DIY. Bought parts from NW QuadVan

j-d (that's me) did a DIY conversion with parts from Quigley in PA with lots of tips from carringb
holiday27 had his front end upgraded by NW QuadVan - be sure to read his symptoms and results

deprived upgraded his front end DIY with parts from Quigley - I posted a Thread With Pix like deprived did

It seems to work out that if:

you need a full front brake job (new rotors and pads, new or rebuilt calipers)

--OR---

you need extensive axle repair (new ball joints and bushings)

then getting new take-off parts becomes cost-effective.

The deal-breaker can be SHIPPING. My palletized crate from Quigley weighed 400-pounds

j-d, I live only about 18 miles South of Portland, so I will check this place out. Thank you for your help. Gonna work on the MH this Sunday.

Thanks again,
Dennis

j-d wrote:
How close are you to Portland? QuadVan in Portland converts E-Series to 4*4 since Ford never offered them in 4*4 and lots of people wanted that. They sell the take-off parts (front brakes, axles and misc.) at very attractive prices. You also end up with MUCH larger, better front brakes. A few extra parts are required but it isn't a bad conversion. QuadVan will also repair your brakes using those parts. Just a thought... Call 503.224.3629 and ask for John or Email Info@Quadvan.com
I converted ours and finally scrapped all those old parts. Re-surfaced set of rotors, recent calipers... Just too much bulk to keep around, and too heavy to ship any distance.
In any event, start with the fronts, that you know you need, and see where the chase takes you. Or maybe have it towed to QuadVan... If you have it towed, the driveshaft should be disconnected.