Hi all,My next door neighbor's husband passed away a couple of years ago and she has not had the heart to go near her 2002 Conquest ever since. She's now ready to hit the road again but . . . after two years in the back yard, it wont start. Cranks just fine and if we spray some engine start into the air cleaner intake we get momentary ignition and then back to just cranks. As I said her husband passed away two summers ago so the unit has been sitting - probably with no gas treatment/stabilizer for all that time. I suspect clogged fuel injectors, fuel injector rail or gas filter OR all the above. I took a peek under the hood and also removed the engine cover from the interior of the vehicle and HOLY COW - how the heck to do you get to any of these components??? I'm trying to save her an expensive tow and shop repair but I'm wondering if a trip to the shop is inevitable. I'm up to the task of doing the replacement and cleaning if necessary - I just dont know how to best access this stuff.Can anyone recommend a youtube video or other source of info or other tips for getting this thing running?Thanks in advance to everyone!

Sounds like the fuel pump isn't working. It's in the tank, try and listen near the tank to try and hear it. If not check the fuses.

have some one in the cab,hand on key ,open flap the gas tank ,listen while they turn the key, you should here the pump. no?? check fuse . that gas is junk I would not try starting it, you,ll clog up the fuel system, it should go to a ford dealer, or a good mech shop.

Check for rodent damage. After 2 years in the backyard it's possible that they have chewed up some wires and/or hoses. At least rule that out before looking into other options.

If it is a Ford gasser, just find a good ford truck mechanic and have them come an look at it. Gould be any one of a lot of things, most probably small. Bad gas is a good place to start, fuel flow or not is probably the next place. If it fired with the ether, that probably clears the ignition system. Most likely is the fuel system, including filter and pumps.

E450 - Widow's engine won't start (2002 Conquest)

j-d
Explorer II
Jun 09, 2016
E-Series Fuel Filter Change Thread. Looks like at least our 2002 chassis used only a spring bracket, no tool needed. Just the 5/16" Scissor like I have or one of the many alternatives. Also, it used the small diameter filter, shared with Ranger, that Bryan mentioned toward the end of the linked thread.
j-d
Explorer II
Jun 09, 2016
1. That EFI service port is like a tire valve. Remove the cap and there are threads a pressure gauge is supposed to go onto. A high pressure gauge... able to read at least 50-PSI. If all you want to do is see if there's pressure, cycle the ignition to RUN a couple times, then press the valve core like you would on a tire. It should really spurt since the pump should deliver around 50.
2. Yes it will depressurize the fuel line. When I changed ours, I just went under with the release tool and let it leak. It'll leak with no pressure, since the filter is low and both ends of the fuel line will drain down. You'll find the filter is in some kine of clamp or bracket. If I recall correctly, E450 filter just snaps in place. If not you'd need a tool to release the bracket.
Will try to find the thread I started on it.
fpfiglia
Explorer
Jun 08, 2016
Hi j-d and thanks for the tip on EFI valve. I'll definitely hunt it down but just had a couple of questions:

1. Is the valve something that can be opened temporarily to check whether the fuel line is pressurized? (I'm guessing the answer is yes)

2.Once opened (and assuming the rig is not started), does opening the pressure valve depressurize the fuel line so that I can replace the fuel filter using the disconnect tool you also mentioned?
fpfiglia
Explorer
Jun 08, 2016
Thanks again everyone and a special thanks to Bordercollie for some very practical issues to consider.

In fact, Darlene is very knowledgeable about driving, camping and doing the simple routine maintenance stuff like winterizing, trickle charging the batts etc etc. During the years he was healthy, her husband made sure she could do all of these things on her own. During his last few years when he was too frail, she picked up the slack and they continued to take road trips where she put what she learned to very good use.

As to the significant maintenance the rig needs now - yep for sure. What I am trying to do is get it up and running so that we can at least drive it down the hill or a complete and thorough check up. Just hate to have her endure the expense of the tow which is very significant given the mountain top we live on.

Thanks again for your generosity - I'll put these ideas to the test this weekend.
Bordercollie
Explorer
Jun 08, 2016
The RV may need a bunch of service to make it reliable and safe to drive. Are tires less than 5 years old by date codes? Is engine cooling system in good shape. Is the entire brake system in good shape including brake fluid change. Do house battery(s) need replacement? Is converter/charger working properly.
If she can afford it, have it taken on a flat bed to a Ford Truck mechanic to get it running and serviced mechanically. Next take it to an RV service (or call a mobile RV service) and have all housebox systems and appliances checked out and serviced as needed.

Is the lady savvy about connecting to shore power, starting generator, operating fridge, microwave, air conditioner and furnace, sanitizing fresh water tanks, dumping waste water tanks, set up and take down of awning, etc. Does she have good emergency RV road service?

As you probably know, there is a lot to know about, and maintain, in owning and operating an RV. She should get involved in what services are being done, how much they will cost and periodic services that will be needed in future. Joining a local RV social camping group might help her.
j-d
Explorer II
Jun 08, 2016
Unlike many, the E450 has a drain plug at the bottom of the gas tank. The EFI pressure test valve is near the transmission dipstick. Green cap, as I recall. Just watch out. If the system IS pumping, that'll be around 50-PSI so you want to protect your eyes and not allow any ignition sources.
Fuel filter requires a 5/16" disconnect tool If you replace it, and it's the large diameter one, be sure it has the long "necks" that go into the connectors on the fuel lines. Test for this with your disconnect tool. If you can tell you wouldn't be able to get it into the connector, the next time you'll have to cut the filter necks off. This is because Ford USED to use a different connector, where a locking clevis went in from the side.
craz_z
Explorer
Jun 08, 2016
Get the fuel filter disconnected. driver side frame rail. u need a ford disconnect ring at the part store, then try the fuel pump with the key on. No guessing either fuel dumps out or it doesn't.

pumps vibrate and make hums but other electronics can too. Once the fuel poors out smell it if it's like turpentine linseed oil and not the distinct smell of fresh gasoline it won't start until it's heated up bad gas doesn't burn well but can run once up to operating temperature. Best to dump the gas and start with new.

If that doesn't work their is a pressure valve on the fuel rail once depressed fuel will shoot out another way of.verifying the pump is presuring the injectors.

Once running use a quality additive with high amounts of PEA like www.sfrcorp.com protecta fuel additive to clean up the varnish left behind from the bad gas
fpfiglia
Explorer
Jun 07, 2016
Wow everyone thank you for the wealth of information. I told my neighbor (Darlene) about the responses and she said she would cook a pie for each of you if she could.

I have a lot more ideas i can try now - the most promising of which seem to be checking the fuel pump and if that's not working, looking for rodent damage before concluding it's the pump. Hopefully I can do this without having to lift the RV.

Does anyone know where the fuel pump fuse is located? Is it in the fuse box located in the engine compartment over the driver side headlight?

Am I also correct that if the pump does not fire up, I could bypass the existing wiring then feed it 12 VDC via a splice into the existing wiring nearest to the tank in order to isolate the problem - wire vs. pump? I hate the idea of dropping the fuel tank only to find out it was the wiring and not the pump. I suppose I could also check to see if the pump is getting power by splicing into the wire (or maybe a harness)harness nearest the tank at the pump. Jeez I hope I can figure this out for her.

Thanks everyone
navegator
Explorer
Jun 07, 2016
You are going to need two persons, one under the fuel tank to listen for the pump, insert key and turn ignition on do not cranck engine, just the dash lights for two seconds and let the person under the RV that you are going to turn the ignition on, repeat several times.

When the key is turned to ignition the there is a two second period when the fuel pump is energised and if there is no start the rellay turns off, there should be a bussing sound from the pump or whirring, if no sound pump is gone, and needs replacement, also check that rodents have not chewed any wiring.

Might have to tow to the mechanic, to replace the pump you need to drop the tank.

navegator
klutchdust
Explorer II
Jun 06, 2016
Throw that ether in the trash, worst thing you can do to an engine. It super cleans the cylinder walls and causes expensive damage. Notice how the engine bangs when you run it on starting fluid? The fuel went bad and clogged everything, tow it to a mechanic or use ether and tow it to an engine replacement mechanic.

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E450 - Widow's engine won't start (2002 Conquest)

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