CloudDriver,
Like yourself, I too do a whole lot of brake work, and have to agree with NormK. But...
At the same time, you did nothing wrong. The few things you didn't do only reduced the duration for the next time you'll be playing with the same brakes. Instead of another 80,000 you might get 60,000....big deal. You'll probably won't own the rig long enough for that.
Basically it's all about prevention. You've got a few things going well. The surface of the disk/rotor looked beautiful. No scoring, no rust, appearing to be very flat, not in need of being cut or surfacing. Another point is that it appears the rotor and caliper have not been heavily subjected to winter salt. So any corrosion influenced trouble is greatly reduced. You did a very simple and very low cost brake job done right. Rest easy and enjoy.
The only things extra I would have done even for a "quick" brake job is...
1) Clean off the pistons before re-inserting into the caliper to avoid potential damage to each piston seal. If the dust boots did their job well, this might only be an inspection.
2) Replace the brake fluid. This assuming the bleeder valves are not rusted in place. If you get the bleeder valves loose, I would pump out all fluid out from the master cylinder, wipe out clean, then refill. Then remove the bleeder valves one at a time and let fluid slowly drain out while adding fluid up top to flow all the old fluid through the master cylinder, brake lines, ABS system, and proportioning valves. Then do a normal bleeding procedure after. Old fluid can jell up with moisture. Such contaminated fluid in all those systems can eventually introduce trouble, most often an ABS light coming on. Unfortunately by that time a system bleeding won't help. Time for a new ABS module. New fluid also makes your brakes perform better, much better than 10 year old fluid.
Also, I like to clean the threads on the bleeder valves and wrap them in plumbers teflon tape to prevent seizing and also for better bleeding.
Recapping much of what you did along with NormK, not in any particular priority or order
- clean piston walls before pushing them back into caliper
- clean & apply anti-seize to all points of rest, the ears of pads to caliper
- clean and lube the caliper slides
- cut the rotors
- regrease the bearings
- replace grease seals
- suck out and wipe out the master cylinder reservoir of as much fluid and dirt as is possible
- bleed/flush the brake lines with fresh DOT-3 fluid
- clean bleeder valves and wrap the threads in plumbers trflon tape
- clean mating surfaces, wheel to hub and apply anti-seize
- for the newer rotor design introduced in 2008, now separate from the hub like most cars, clean mating flat surfaces rotor to hub to assure true flatness to eliminate potential for rotor wobble/pulsating brakes, and add a thin layer of anti-seize to both surfaces as a corrosion preventative and for easy disassembly next time.
I wanted to add that I really like your tip of freeing the wheel from hub....driving a few hundred feet with loose lug nuts. That is tops! :)
Again, great job, great writeup. I didn't know about the caliper mounting pin clip design.
