E450 won't start

I have jumped many a solenoid to get an engine going. I know how to avoid a direct short to ground and am aware how hot the bridging tool can get. Nothing like jumping a solenoid on a Chevy V8 pick-up with headers using a long screwdriver. I also know how to use a meter. Much safer. Check voltage at the battery and work your way to the starter. If the chassis battery checks low, you might have a jump button on the dash to use the house battery as a booster.

DUNEBUGGYDOUG wrote:
Us rednecks have been jumping across solenoid posts for many many years with pliers, heavy gauge wire, or whatever we had.Ya gotta do whatcha gotta do

Haha. Me too. That's how I learned to weld

Us rednecks have been jumping across solenoid posts for many many years with pliers, heavy gauge wire, or whatever we had.Ya gotta do whatcha gotta do

I agree with indyzmike. If you try that with pliers or something similar it will very quickly become an arc welder....
Sounds like a dead battery to me. I would just do a simple jump start from a running vehicle preferably and full size truck or van.

I think that you are better off checking things out with a meter than jumping terminals to see what works. Jumping terminals is for the experienced electrical troubleshooter, or as a last ditch effort for someone stuck somewhere and needs to get out. Safety my friend, think safety. Find someone that knows how to use a simple meter and have them check it, or learn how yourself. It never hurts to know this stuff and it is not too hard to learn.

From my experience, clicking generally indicates a low battery, bad connection at the battery or the starter solenoid. The last time I had a clicking at start up it turned out to be the negative connection at the battery. Somehow the clamp worked its way loose.

-Michael

The "Solenoid" mounted inside your fender well, close to the battery, should look about like this photo



Your Positive Battery Cable attaches to one of the large terminals and the heavy gauge cable to the Starter attaches to the other.

The Small terminal is where the START circuit from your Ignition Switch connects.

If Battery and Connections are GOOD and that fender mounted Solenoid is GOOD but something is wrong in the Key Switch or Neutral Safety switch, jumping the Battery Positive to the Small terminal should cause it to crank. NO NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH, SO BE SURE IT'S IN PARK AND BRAKES SET!!!

If all else is GOOD but that Solenoid is BAD, jumping across the two LARGE terminals with something that can carry a lot of current (like a Jumper Cable or the jaws of Pliers) should cause it to Crank (AGAIN, NO SAFETY SWITCHES).

I don't know of a home (maybe even a shop) tester that can tell much about the condition of an Alternator that isn't being spun and isn't wired up.

These V10 Starters last a LONG time. There was a case not long ago (and I called Bryan about it since he's run a V10 so long) where the coach wouldn't start. Turned out the real problem was a discharged battery. But in the process of trying to crank with a low battery, the starter got damaged. Low Voltage means more Heat, more Damage. So Please, be SURE you have a good cranking battery, well charged, with good connections. Have somebody hold a voltmeter on the battery terminals. Before you crank, it should be 12 or more. Cranking could bring it down to about 10. If it doesn't start, and voltage gets down into single digits, I believe your starter is at risk. Use a Jump Pack or Booster Cables or come back with another battery. You don't want to fry a starter that was otherwise good, trying to use a battery that was weak anyway.

Ok.

carringb: So I am going to check the battery terminals again, they looked clean however, to me, no corrosion/build up (I have little covers on them).

ksg and clyde: How do I bypass the starter solonoid?

Many coach builders tie multiple monitors, detectors, etc. directly to the chassis battery. Your electric steps are probably one, as the retract when you start the vehicle.

I found this out,initially the same way you are. Dead Battery after 3-4 weeks.

Now I keep a small battery tender plugged into the dash power outlet.
The on I bought was from walmart a Stanley model for around $20.00.
No dead batter in the last 2 years.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-2-amp-Battery-Charger/14560006

Multiple Clicks = low voltage. If you are sure the battery is charged, you probably just need to clean the terminals.

A bad starter relay only clicks once.