Engine Oil

Gonzo42: That Valvoline you are putting in, is is a low ash oil as is required by MB for your Sprinter (as Mobile 1 5w40 ESP is). I believe it is necessary for proper EGR Valve and other pollution reducing devices on the Sprinter.

I use Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance) in our Class C's V10 engine. I switched from standard Mobil 1 to Mobil 1 EP some time ago.

I also use Mobil 1 EP in both of our motorhome's generators. Along with Mobil 1 EP, I also use special spark plugs in both generators. The generators run quieter, smoother, and probably more efficiently ... using both the synthetic oil and different spark plugs.

j-d wrote:
Call me crazy but I'd suggest you follow the manufacturer's instructions while that '14 is in warranty. Besides, those (many OPs here) who use the MotorCraft SynBlend Oil (and their brand of filter) haven't had complaints.
Ford's recommendation, Ford's change intervals, keep receipts. Sure, if something goes wrong, Ford "has to prove" that your deviation from their plan contributed to the problem, but why set up for a potential issue?

If the oil meets the spec Ford calls out for the vehicle they have nothing to complain about if there's a warranty claim.

As has been said be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendation as to break in period before switching to syn (if any).

If you really want to get serious do a 1000 mile oil change before the first scheduled change. That will help get any extra manufacturing debris out of the motor.

Six months ago we bought our 2012 E-350 V-10 24' Nexus C. It had 6,205 miles on it and of course the dealer had just changed the oil so at 10,000 I switched to pure synthetic and won't look back. I hope to keep this rig for many years and going to full synthetic just seemed like the right way to go. I will be changing the oil at 7,500 mile intervals as it gets used year round and often, probably 15,000 miles a year. The V-10's do best with 5W20.
:C

TucsonJim wrote:
I've used full synthetic on all my gasoline engines for the last 30 years. I've never had an engine malfunction in that time. Here is the mileage when I traded them in or sold them:

1984 Mitsubishi Montero - 235,000
1994 Chevrolet 1500 - 175,000
2002 Chevrolet 1500 - 38,000 (Transmission failure at 37,500 - traded for 3/4 ton)
2004 Chevrolet 2500 - 130,000

I failed to mention that I changed the oil every 7,000 miles.

I get my Rotella T synthetic from Wally World for my motorcycle. Best price anywhere.

Break it in first.

The new oils are pretty good. I use synthetic, Valvoline mostly. I get it at Walmart and use it to extend my oil changes but still don't go over 4500 miles.

A good quality filter is probably more important and I don't believe Fram makes one.

j-d wrote:
Call me crazy but I'd suggest you follow the manufacturer's instructions while that '14 is in warranty. Besides, those (many OPs here) who use the MotorCraft SynBlend Oil (and their brand of filter) haven't had complaints.
Ford's recommendation, Ford's change intervals, keep receipts. Sure, if something goes wrong, Ford "has to prove" that your deviation from their plan contributed to the problem, but why set up for a potential issue?

I agree. I use Ford Motorcraft SynBlend in all my Fords including the TV. My wife's Mustang has 450,000 on it and never any engine work. I believe full synethic is great but not worth the cost.

Call me crazy but I'd suggest you follow the manufacturer's instructions while that '14 is in warranty. Besides, those (many OPs here) who use the MotorCraft SynBlend Oil (and their brand of filter) haven't had complaints.
Ford's recommendation, Ford's change intervals, keep receipts. Sure, if something goes wrong, Ford "has to prove" that your deviation from their plan contributed to the problem, but why set up for a potential issue?

I do not switch to synthetic til the engine is broken in. I have been using Amsoil and one year had to do a valve job on a Subaru engine with over 100,000 miles. There was no ridge in the cylinders and the hone marks from the origionaol build were still faintly visible.
I switch to all shynthetic oil, engine, transmission, differentials and in this kind of weather, single digit and below zero it is worth a couple of mpg because of a lower pour point. It also has higher tolerance for heat before coking. Subaru #11 went to the junk yard with over 300,000 miles and these are a high RPM engine.