Engine running rough (1999 Ford V10)

Just wanted to report that I finally got into a Ford dealer near my area and their scan of my engine was showing random miss fires. So they suggested to me that I change the plugs and coil packs. Since the engine now had 170,000 KMS on it I gave them the go ahead, it took almost all day to do the job, but after it was done. WOW did it ever run smooth. I only had to drive back home (60 KMS) it never missed a beat going up hills, and the next morning, I went out to start it up and for the first time in a couple of months the engine started first try. In the past it would always take 2 or 3 tries before the engine would continue to run without stalling.

It was not a cheap job, but it was a lot less than the $12,220, I was quoted at a Ford dealership in Florida, low compression on 8 of 10 cylinders , funny, the dealership here could not find any compression issues that were that bad, just normal wear.

You can get a pack of 10 COPs on ebay for the price of getting 1 done at the dealer.

Like lots of others, my 1999 had water in the filter in heavy rains. A new filter fixed mine twice, then I installed the snorkel, and haven't had any problem since. Did you find out how the water got into the filter? Anyway, I would buy a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner and try that. I think the sensor is pretty close to the filter, so it could have become contaminated, causing all sorts of problems.

I am going to get my plugs changed before I head out in December for sure, and hopefully that solves the problem.

Thanks

For what it's worth, changing the plugs isn't that hard------------just a little time consuming if you do it right. You would need a 1/4" and 3/8" socket set and an INCH lb. torque wrench ($30-$50) and an air compressor. All the COP's and plugs were easy to get to once the dog-house cover was removed on my MH. A couple of long extensions (one 1/4" for removing the COP's and a 3/8" for the plugs are handy along with a spark plug socket).

On my 99 plug misfire does not set a code nor light up the check engine light.

Thanks for all the information people, especially this one about removing the spark plugs. I can see why the dealer would not take the time to do a proper job. At this point in time I know I have to do something, I can't continue to drive it like this, my nerves can't stand it, but it is obvious that there is more than water in the gas that is causing trouble.

The engine has over 100,000 K miles on it, without changing plugs, I should have know better, guess it was one on those things, it was working great so I never gave it much thought, but the Ford Dealership that I had been taking it to in Florida should have mentioned it when I took it in for service. Now I got a problem, it is going to be hard to get it fixed here, I can't do the job myself, and the only Ford Dealership close to me here only has one service bay that can handle my unit, and all commercial trucks would come first. I was talking to a mechanic in Lakeland Florida about my so called blown engine last year, and he told me to bring it back down this winter (if I can make) and he will fix it up, he has done several of the V10's before. Maybe I will be able to find someone around here that has the tools and knowledge.

Thanks everyone

Be very, very careful about changing the plugs on a 1999 V10 or who you have do it. More damage than good could easily come from it.

Are you really sure you have a problem?? Your OP mentioned downshifting and the engine going to 3000+ rpm-----------that's very normal for a V10 during acceleration or under more than a light throttle. If you have any misfiring going on, your check engine light should come on and a code set. If the check engine light isn't on, and you have good engine response, that should be good.

As for changing the spark plugs, here is an much earlier post of mine on the subject:



The design (4 threads in an aluminum block) is not very robust. When plugs are changed at a dealership, they usually don't get changed correctly. To do it correctly (maybe cautiously is a better term) takes time that a dealership won't invest. I have also previously posted this.

If the mechanic just put his wench on the plugs (especially, if the engine was cool), he may have taken some of the original aluminum threads out with the steel threads on the plug------leading to a failure done the road. It is also probably a good idea to also recheck the torque every 20,000 to 30,000 miles.






From what I learned on the Ford V10 Forum the proper torque was 168 IN-lbs with high temp never-seize on the threads.

Better to remove the plugs, but that has to be done carefully to avoid problems. Here's how I did it.

1. Remove the coil-on-plugs and blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air.

2. Squirt in WD40 or PB Blaster and LET SET OVERNIGHT (or at least an hour).

3. Loosen the plugs just 1/8 to 1/4 turn!!! NO MORE.

4. Squirt more WD40/PB Blaster into the well and LET SET OVERNIGHT.

5. Remove the plugs and check the threads in the head with a bright pencil light.

6. Check/replace the plugs (be sure gap is correct----which I think was around 0.055").

7. Place a LITTLE high temp never-seize on the plug threads. Be sure none gets on the spark plug tip!!!

8. Hand start the plugs (a spark plug socket with a rubber insert and a 6" extension is a big help). The plugs should screw in easily until their shoulder bottoms in the head.

9. Torque to exactly 168 IN-lbs (14 ft-lbs).

10 Recheck the plugs after 5,000-10,000 miles (and maybe every 25,000 miles thereafter to be safe).


If all else fails (or you want an insurance policy when traveling), buy a Timesert Kit.



I did the above at about 40,000 miles before heading to Alaska. The plugs came out without any aluminum on their threads-------possibly due to allowing 2 days to let the PB Blaster to soak in.

I rechecked the torque on them after about 20,000 miles and they were all fine. The MH now has about 64,000 miles on it.

I have replace all the COPs on my 99. Number 4&5 last two on passenger side. You can disconnect the plug that plugs into the COP when running and if it is bad then no change on engine sound. A good one the engine will drop rpm fast. Went thru almost the same thing you did and it turn out to be the COPs.

If you pull the plugs yourself,
1 clean top of engine carefully with air

2 do it with engine cold,aluminum heads

3 use torque wrench to tighten plugs

check coil boots for burned spots,replace as needed

4 use boot release grease on coil boots

5 DO NOT USE ANY FANCY SPLITFIRE plugs,stay with original

dave