Experience using Geocel to seal fiberglass roof
Just before leaving on a cross country trip, I noticed the white Itasca sealant was failing on almost 30% of my fiberglass roof edge -- the adhesion to the fiberglass surface was excellent but it had very weak or often no adhesions to the powder coated aluminum molding.
I obviously didn’t want to reuse what Winnebago used since it failed prematurely. Reading the forum 3M 4000 sounded good but I couldn’t find it before leaving.
CW had Geocel P/N 20442, on-line sale $6.88/tube. The white is listed as having higher adhesion but clear was all that CW had on the shelf. Here’s my experience:
It took about 6 hours to clean and prep the 20’ that failed. Although the Winnie sealant didn’t adhere to the molding, it had a tenacious grip on the fiberglass. A sharp metal scraper and careful use of acetone finally cleaned it off the roof surface and cleaned out the space between the molding the roof material.
Applying the Geocel was tricky. It ‘skins’ over fast but a wetted finger helps smooth the surface. It squirted as much of it as I could down into the recess.
The Geocel was still very sticky and very soft even after a few days in hot sun. Now 5 months later, it’s still a little sticky. Dirt will definitely get embedded.
After 5 months, it appears to still adhere well to both surfaces, However, it did ‘shrink’ or flow down so that some areas will have to be top coated.
Summary: It appears to seal and adhere well. It’s a lot of work (removing the old sealant and prepping), a little messy and will attract dirt. About 6 tubes should do a 30’ roof on both sides.
I’m about to do the remaining 40 feet of the roof , so if anyone has advice to make it easier - or a better way - I’m all ears.
Question: does anyone have a diagram of what’s behind the molding or how it’s held on? Screws from the inside?
I bought EternaBond but decided against using it because:
1. The sealing/adhesion surface on the molding is only 0.180 inch wide
2. The EternaBond would then immediately have to bend 188 degrees over and then bend up immediately again.
If anyone wants 2 new 4” x 50’ rolls of whet EternaBond, send me a PM.
I obviously didn’t want to reuse what Winnebago used since it failed prematurely. Reading the forum 3M 4000 sounded good but I couldn’t find it before leaving.
CW had Geocel P/N 20442, on-line sale $6.88/tube. The white is listed as having higher adhesion but clear was all that CW had on the shelf. Here’s my experience:
It took about 6 hours to clean and prep the 20’ that failed. Although the Winnie sealant didn’t adhere to the molding, it had a tenacious grip on the fiberglass. A sharp metal scraper and careful use of acetone finally cleaned it off the roof surface and cleaned out the space between the molding the roof material.
Applying the Geocel was tricky. It ‘skins’ over fast but a wetted finger helps smooth the surface. It squirted as much of it as I could down into the recess.
The Geocel was still very sticky and very soft even after a few days in hot sun. Now 5 months later, it’s still a little sticky. Dirt will definitely get embedded.
After 5 months, it appears to still adhere well to both surfaces, However, it did ‘shrink’ or flow down so that some areas will have to be top coated.
Summary: It appears to seal and adhere well. It’s a lot of work (removing the old sealant and prepping), a little messy and will attract dirt. About 6 tubes should do a 30’ roof on both sides.
I’m about to do the remaining 40 feet of the roof , so if anyone has advice to make it easier - or a better way - I’m all ears.
Question: does anyone have a diagram of what’s behind the molding or how it’s held on? Screws from the inside?
I bought EternaBond but decided against using it because:
1. The sealing/adhesion surface on the molding is only 0.180 inch wide
2. The EternaBond would then immediately have to bend 188 degrees over and then bend up immediately again.
If anyone wants 2 new 4” x 50’ rolls of whet EternaBond, send me a PM.
