Extended Service Plans/Extended Warranties
Okay, I am new to whole RV world. Having been wanting to buy a Class C for about 18 months, so did some light research, which at some point in the last six months has turned into major research. Don...
Forum Discussion
I recommend against wasting your money on an ESP. I bought a 1983 MH and have done all work myself. Even with a motorhome that old, the engine only had 50K miles on it.
If you can work on your home and your car COMPETENTLY then you will be able to take care of pretty much anything you come up against. If you are someone who must take a car to someone else for an oil change, or call an electrician when a light switch is on the fritz, then set aside about $5K and be ready to touch that cash at any moment.
An RV can include all the niggles of owning a boat, house and car all in one. Sometimes it can be "affordable" and other times it could be a lot more. As an example, if your refrigerator goes out then you are probably looking at $2000 to replace.
I had an RV place in Napa do a roof re-seal and appliance "check" when I bought my 1983. The work they did was essentially a waste of money. Soon after, I replaced the fridge, I rebuilt and modified my water heater, I rebuilt all the coach electrics and the engine electrics and I completely rebuilt the cabover as it was completely rotted out by water leakage.
If you found something with the floorplan you like, have a mechanic check the engine and then have the coach pressure checked for leaks. Water is THE enemy of your RV. If the running gear and leak check are good, you can buy with fairly good confidence. After that, you will most likely end up checking/patching your roof seal yearly and doing basic maintenance, but keep that reserve of cash at the ready just in case.
As far as purchase price, I would keep in mind that it is the end of the "real" camping season and demand for RV's should be down. I would start closer to low blue book on my offer. Tires rated for RV use have a 7 year life span. Many folks will use D load rated truck tires and those should be replaced every 5 years.
Jose
If you can work on your home and your car COMPETENTLY then you will be able to take care of pretty much anything you come up against. If you are someone who must take a car to someone else for an oil change, or call an electrician when a light switch is on the fritz, then set aside about $5K and be ready to touch that cash at any moment.
An RV can include all the niggles of owning a boat, house and car all in one. Sometimes it can be "affordable" and other times it could be a lot more. As an example, if your refrigerator goes out then you are probably looking at $2000 to replace.
I had an RV place in Napa do a roof re-seal and appliance "check" when I bought my 1983. The work they did was essentially a waste of money. Soon after, I replaced the fridge, I rebuilt and modified my water heater, I rebuilt all the coach electrics and the engine electrics and I completely rebuilt the cabover as it was completely rotted out by water leakage.
If you found something with the floorplan you like, have a mechanic check the engine and then have the coach pressure checked for leaks. Water is THE enemy of your RV. If the running gear and leak check are good, you can buy with fairly good confidence. After that, you will most likely end up checking/patching your roof seal yearly and doing basic maintenance, but keep that reserve of cash at the ready just in case.
As far as purchase price, I would keep in mind that it is the end of the "real" camping season and demand for RV's should be down. I would start closer to low blue book on my offer. Tires rated for RV use have a 7 year life span. Many folks will use D load rated truck tires and those should be replaced every 5 years.
Jose
