Forum Discussion

mpac165's avatar
mpac165
Explorer
Oct 07, 2014

FIRST TIME RV-ER QUESTIONS

Hi, Thanks for Reading; I am a wannabe full-time RV'er, and, I have some questions...Here goes!

Okay, so, I am a low income adult with disabilities, living on social security. My apartment is becoming a bit too expensive, and, I'd like to travel, and end up on the west coast.

SO, I've decided to buy a (used, older) motorhome (on payments, hopefully, of no more than $300/mo/40mos).

My plan, is to Live IN the motorhome, parked locally, for at least several months, perhaps up to a year. A friend of a friend has a warehouse and would let me park my motorhome there, and get (virtually free) electricity and water for the duration.

Now, I need to learn a lot about rv-ing. Such as, I assume that if the vehicle engine isn't running, than I have to run the house off of the batteries, of the generator, or plug into an electrical outlet.

1)...How much will propane cost?
1b)...How long will it last/hours?


2)...On the road, how much does it cost to dump the waste tank?
2b)...and, how much to fill up fresh water tank?

3)...How about tolls? Is there a way to find out how much my tolls will cost before I embark on my journey?

4)...What is 'good sams'? Is it worth it?

5)...RV insurance for full-timers/cost?

No matter what, I will not jump on the road until the motorhome in in tiptop shape and A-One Condition Mechanically, Electrically, and other 'ally's...That is another reason I want to live in the RV for at least a few months--so I can afford any necessary repairs and preventive maintenance, as well as anything that pops up along the way. Speaking of which;

6)...what are the most common 'on the road' repairs for motorhomes? Tires? brakes? belts? overheating/radiator? starter?

Am I missing anything?
Horsepower for going uphill?
Slideouts--good? or bad? (I heard some leak)

RV-Motorhome inspection: can I get a motorhome inspected by the state, or does it have to be a 'licensed professional'/I heard they can charge several hundred, upto a thousand dollars per inspection?

What are the Necessities/Must Haves for On The Road, and RV Parks?

Are (older) Motorhome bathrooms as bad as they say?
Bad toilets?
Showers that run out of hot water?

Options for TV and Internet?
I have to assume that the motorhome that I get will not have a kingdome satellite dish/receiver, so, I Do know that my laptop can use my smartphones cell connection--and at that--I can surf the internet, and watch my favorite shows either on my laptop, or the RV televisions (I know that I can hookup a wire to most televisions from a laptop). Once I am parked out west in an RV Park--I've researched that many include cable tv/elec/water/internet. I've also heard that most internet from rv parks, is lousy--and, at that--I could get a usb wifi card for my laptop--and solve those issues.

STILL, I'd love to have a dish, or other reliable tv and internet services, on the road, and in the rv parks. Any suggestions, tips?

Is there a AAA/Triple A--for Motorhomes? Towing is expensive for cars--it must be sky high for RV's. How much does on-site maintenance and repair cost? Are there insurance plans for that? Costs?

While I am on the road, I (hopefully) only plan to stop for fuel, and to take out the trash--I have a cat that is my traveling companion---litter stinks...trash will be emptied as often as possible.

In the months to a year that I will live in whatever motorhome I get, I will get to know as much as I can about my RV, about Driving and Parking an RV, and about Living in an RV...and its' costs...

My dream is to try to get a motorhome WITH Slide-outs--hopefully, there will be no leaks, and I can have more square footage living area.

Thank you for your help!

Mark
Class A
  • mpac165's avatar
    mpac165
    Explorer
    Oct 07, 2014
    I fully realize that breakdowns happen; and, I intend to be prepared for any situation while I am on the road. But again, I will spend about a year living in the RV, getting to know it, learning the ins and outs, maintaining it, and preparing it for a three thousand mile journey. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I will check out good sams, coach-net and other on the road services. I don't expect a trouble free trip to California, but, before I go, I can do my best to prepare for the worst along the way.

    Thanks!
  • cjoseph's avatar
    cjoseph
    Explorer
    Oct 07, 2014
    First, check local codes/zoning and make sure you can live in an RV at the warehouse. Sooner or later a concerned or nosey neighbor may call the authorities.

    Out west, there are many places to boon dock at little to no cost. Browse some full-time RVer's blogs for more research.

    I have read some blog posts from retirees who are succeeding at what you propose. However, I suspect that those who end up broke and stranded some where don't have the where withal to post those stories.

    I would have an exit plan that includes emergency repairs or travel to a home base.

    Also, I'm not too sure about your financing plan. Banks are most likely very reluctant to finance an RV as old as you will have to find to meet your price point. I haven't shopped for old MHs or tried to finance one, either. Maybe you have an alternate financing plan?

    You may be better served to find a really, really old MH for cheap. Shop around. They are out there. Many have sat for extended periods of time. Take your time and make sure it is mechanically sound.

    With a year or two to bring it up to shape, you could make quite a few repairs to the house in that time using out of pocket money. Then, you could avoid financing. If you find a mechanically sound RV with a sound roof that needs a new AC, furnace and some other house stuff, you can work on that or find a mobile RV tech to do the tough jobs. Many RVs are orphaned when a spouse loses his/her health or dies, and they sit. Sooner or later, someone just wants to get rid of it.

    Some of the systems may need costly repairs or just simple things. This is why someone already asked you how mechanically savvy you are. If not, you will use the check book for repairs. That can get costly.

    Good luck to you.
  • mobilefleet's avatar
    mobilefleet
    Explorer
    Oct 07, 2014
    heck, just one trip to NJ from SC cost me over a grand in breakdowns with 2 flat tires and road service in a class A (most don't have spares).. And that pesky 7 mpg thing makes it an expensive hobby. I don't see anyone living on SS traveling in an rv very far. Gotta be brutally honest. I join those who say a travel trailer would be a better idea. No mechanical engine to worry about
  • mpac165's avatar
    mpac165
    Explorer
    Oct 07, 2014
    I am 49 years old, and while I am not as mechanically handy as I would Like to be, I learn fast; so, I am confident in my abilities to maintain the motorhome once I am actively living in it. For all of your replies--Thank You! I will certainly get a qualified person to inspect whatever RV I buy, and I will check the tires, and the roof. I will do my best to get an RV with a good roof, and newer tires; if they are not as new as I would like, I will replace them; one by one, if I have to--Before I embark on my journey. I will also consider good sams, and coach-net. I do have my heart set on an RV with slides; especially if I am going to be a full-timer for a few years; I will do my best to find an RV with good slides, and in emergency cases, a manual crank.

    For starters, I will have the motorhome parked OUTSIDE of a friend (of a friends) warehouse. I will get (virtually) Free Electricity and Water. I checked online for local sewage plants where I can dump the RV wastewater for a minimal fee.

    I will live in the RV for about a year or less--depending on what has to be repaired or replaced on the motorhome, and how long it takes me to save up a sufficient amount of monies to make my trip easier.

    I will say that I had forgotten about temperature extremes.
    How do I live in an RV full time without the pipes freezing?
    Insulation? Tank heaters? Pipe heaters?

    I Do have my dream of traveling to several places before I land in California to stay; but, I might have to rethink my travel path; perhaps just a few stops, and then California might be the more optimal way to go.

    Also, for those of you wo said that RV's are not to be used for living---many people live in RV's and Motor Homes Full-Time with Ease. I intend to live in whatever Motorhome I get for about 3-4 years; after that, I'd move back into an apartment. I CAN afford my current apartment--despite it becoming more expensive--however, I've always wanted to go RV'ing--and, the monthly fees at RV Parks are Much cheaper than my current rent.

    Thanks!
  • msredneck84's avatar
    msredneck84
    Explorer
    Oct 07, 2014
    I understand you will be living in MH for about a year parked in an enclosed warehouse? Is this correct? If so what will you do about sewage disposal during this time?
    Enclosed building would negate running the engine at all (if you were planning on working on it).
  • Mr_Mark1's avatar
    Mr_Mark1
    Explorer
    Oct 07, 2014
    Mark, you don't mention your age but you do say you have disabilities. Can you expound on that?

    Can you do repairs yourself? Can you get on the roof to caulk it? Can you service the engine?

    Off the top of my head and that you mention that you are short on cash, I would think a truck and travel trailer would work best. First, the cost of maintenance on a regular truck would be cheaper.

    Slides in an older unit would probably not be the best idea. A non-slide unit is cheaper and obviously an item that will not need maintenance. I've seen non-slide units that are pretty roomy inside. The slide mechanisms do take up space. A non-slide unit will have the storage cabinets that go all the way to the ceiling which will make it feel more spacious.

    Not to get personal, but having an idea of what you have to live on will help giving you better info. If you have $1,500 a month to live on and you are paying for an RV, you won't have much left.

    It can be hard finding free places to stay. Walmart will not want you for a week. Nobody wants to be so short of money, RVing will not be fun with no cash.

    Be safe, take care,
    Mark
  • darsben's avatar
    darsben
    Explorer II
    Oct 07, 2014
    1)Propane cost vary according to the temp outside but in a cold month could run you as much as $200.00 even if you supplement with electric heat. When it is very cold out under about 10-15 degrees you will never be comfortable. The walls are not insulated and with the windows shut the condensation will be fierce. What will you do for water on below freezing days? The water lines in the motor home will probably freeze and may break if you have prolonged temps below freezing. Then you have no water and no toilet flushing. By the way how do you intend to get rid of waste water.

    2) you can find places for free to dump while on the road if you search but generally $10.00. There are cell phone apps to help you find freebees

    3) Most tolls can be avoided by taking alternate routes.

    4) There is the Good Sam club which gets you a discount at Camping World and gas discount at Flying J plus a discount at flying J dump facilities. There is also Good Sam roadside assistance which will dispatch help should you break down on the road. Be sure to read the materials so you understand what is covered and what is not. Cost first year is about $80.00

    5) if you are fulltiming insurance will be more than if you are not.

    Now let us talk about buying your rig. How will you make sure the rig is mechanically sound? Who is going to test all the appliances for safety and function? You are buying an older rig. Any rig with tires over 5 -6 years old should have the tires changed before you embark on your trip. The tread may look good the tires may look sound but sitting in the sun unused is the worst thing for for a tire and can cause blowout as you go with lots of damage(I know because I had one and it did over $1000.00 damage). What will you do when not if but when the rig needs to go to the shop for a week or two for service while you are on the road? Where will you live and can you afford it while the home is in the shop? And will you be able to afford the repair or will you then be homeless in the middle of Kansas?
    You need a good mechanic to go over the drive train, suspension and brakes BEFORE YOU BUY. Yes it is expensive but cheaper than throwing your money away on a rig that will not get you where you want to go.
    Slideouts are nice but just another thing to break or malfunction. If you extend it on the road you may be stuck if it will not retract. So when you look at a rig look to see if you really NEED to extend it before you reach your destination

    My advice is DO NOT DO IT as it is a poor plan but if you are dead set on it please ask lots of question and investigate
  • Bob_AnnaMarie's avatar
    Bob_AnnaMarie
    Explorer
    Oct 07, 2014
    I'm with Miles. I think you need to do this in layers, since I think you are going to find out that living full-time in an RV may not be more affordable than where you are living now.

    But first, in your introduction you mention being an older person with disabilities. Can we assume you have already looked at RVs and climbed the stairs and maneuvered through the walkways? Have you checked heights of cabinets to make sure you can reach everything? Do you have the agility to open all the lower compartments and stoop down to get in them? Sometimes you have to really be agile to get into the compartments if they get blocked by a water hookup, etc.. You need to get this sorted out in your mind before you go any further in your pursuit.

    Frankly, trying to give any estimate on probable expenses of a hypothetical RV is impossible. That is one reason most of us paid a bit more upfront so that we would minimize the chances of a breakdown (at least in the near future after purchase). I have not been in the market recently, but $10K for a rig with slides is already taking a chance on problems. If your budget is in the $10K range I would suggest focusing on rigs without slides and take more time to enjoy the outdoors. Some years back, we rented a 30 ft rig with a great floor plan and no slides and we had room for 5 of us on a 2,500 mile trip. I could have easily lived in that rig.

    In your price range you are looking at a gas rig. This will be an advantage for you since maintenance issues are usually less on gas rigs than they are on diesel. As a new person to the RV world you certainly want to find a local inspector who can take a look at any rig you want to buy. This would be your best insurance against some surprises right off the bat.

    Every RV made can get you from one coast to the other. Those who complain about not enough power to get up a hill should probably find another source of recreation. Yes, you may have to slow down a bit when you climb a hill. But, so what! Just ignore this argument.

    Don't worry about things that can be added or easily modified after you purchase your home. Things like TV, satellite and all that stuff are nice to have from day one, but really should not be what you base your purchase on. The three most important criteria for buying a motor home are: 1) floor plan, 2) floor plan and 3) floor plan. Get this wrong and nothing else really matters.

    Don't get wrapped up in your shorts about towing service. Get Coach-Net which is about the same amount as AAA. Sleep well knowing you are covered.

    But, I am getting ahead of myself. I think by the time you get this far you may find that the RV life style is a choice of preference versus a choice of cost saving. I don't think you will find the latter here.

    It will be interesting to see what you find.

    Bob
  • azrving's avatar
    azrving
    Explorer
    Oct 07, 2014
    If you head out in an rv you will want to have a good stash of back up money or you will end up broke down somewhere with a dead rig and no way to fix it.

    I tend to like the idea of a truck and TT or 5er. If you have problems with the truck, you can still use the TT and wont be without a roof over your head. If you have problems with the trailer, you can still drive to get parts or get around. You also need to consider the temperature extremes. RV's dont do well when it's real hot or real cold.
  • Mandalay_Parr's avatar
    Mandalay_Parr
    Explorer
    Oct 07, 2014
    You have a lot of good questions.
    I would also suggest you go to some RV parks and talk with those folks. I learned a lot before I bought mine. Also read everything you can on this forum.
    I look at all of the most recent posts.

    Yes, you need to keep it plugged in for elec and for keeping the batteries charged.
    You may need to budget for new tires and all new batteries.

    Slides are nice but can also be trouble.

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