Currently working on a 2005 Fleetwood Expedition 34H. The port side (that's left side for you landlubbers) stuck in the full deployed position and I had a hard time starting it back to stow position.Is there an electrical or mechanical limit switch that can be adjusted?

"stuck in the full deployed position and I had a hard time starting it back to stow position." Does this mean you succeeded in getting it to close eventually?If so, there may be a circuit breaker which overloaded and then reset after a period of cooling. Have that from time to time with our hydraulic slide mechanism, usually results in an "oh sh-t" moment until I remember to look for a strain point and ease it before trying again after a few minutes.Could be something binding or just too much draw from the power supply at that moment.If you did not get it closed, that is a different set of issues :(

Yes, I did get it closed. I did some manual pulling on the slide from the inside. I was extremely worried about all the cables, so I was trying to be as careful as possible.So I jogged it in and out with the switches plus yanked on it. It did break loose and stow.I could see that it was trying to move so I suspect a CB is unlikely. I was talking to the owners today and they said it did the same thing only once before, and they manually pushed it from outside and it pulled in, while on the inside the switch was activated.

When we first got our 2005 Fleetwood Excursion 39S we also had slide problems with the left side. The Excursion is basically the same as the Expedition except it has a higher ceiling and some upgraded do-dads.The left side as you've seen has to come up over the hump which makes it harder to retract. Using slide lube underneath helped a lot. The other part of our problem is the batteries we got it with weren't the best. If you start the generator it will put 60 amps into the batteries and that brought the slide in without a problem.Bill

use a scotch bight pad clean the rails anduse somedrylube on them and drylube your seals it should allow it to come in easier

Gonzo42 wrote:Yes, I did get it closed. I did some manual pulling on the slide from the inside. I was extremely worried about all the cables, so I was trying to be as careful as possible.So I jogged it in and out with the switches plus yanked on it. It did break loose and stow.I could see that it was trying to move so I suspect a CB is unlikely. I was talking to the owners today and they said it did the same thing only once before, and they manually pushed it from outside and it pulled in, while on the inside the switch was activated.You mention cables. Do you actually see the cables or just assume there are cables? Most Fleetwoods I have worked on the large front slides did NOT have cables but a standard Motor drive connected to a Driveshaft. When the slide fails to retract but WILL extend with no problem, usually means the Drive motor is defective and needs replaced. The motor has lost its ability to come up that first 8 inches of the ramp. There is NO limit or Amp adjustment on the Fleetwood system I am talking about. IF you do have the Accuslide Cable system, there is no motor or limit switch adjustment either. You can try lube, but that will not fix the problem. Doug

Fleetwood slide question | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

dougrainer
Nomad
Mar 22, 2016
Big Katuna wrote:
Way cheaper on Ebay. Mine was fixed under warranty and the dealer paid something like $800.

clicky link

PG makes about 15 different Motor assbly's and they all look similar. You CANNOT just buy a motor that looks like yours. You need to know the torque/RPM's and see if it matches as well as the P/N on your old motor. I have fixed at least 3 Fleetwoods over the years where the customer or previous service center just installed a motor, and that motor was not rated for the large load of the drivers side front slide. Yes, the complaint was just as this poster---- room would not climb the first 10 inches up the ramp. Doug
Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Mar 22, 2016
Way cheaper on Ebay. Mine was fixed under warranty and the dealer paid something like $800.

clicky link
Blackdiamond
Explorer
Mar 22, 2016
Most likely need a new motor from powergear, once they start acting up it is time to replace it.
Gonzo42
Explorer
Mar 22, 2016
Ok, for sure it is the rack and pinion type. It looks dry (no visible lube) and undamaged.
Gonzo42
Explorer
Mar 19, 2016
Thanx everyone for the info. I should be able to get over there in the next few days to have another look, with tools.
eadeal55
Explorer
Mar 18, 2016
I've had the big slide gears break a tooth or two, and had to give the slide a manual boost to get it seated. Replaced the Power Gear motor and gearbox, and that fixed the problem.
Big_Katuna
Explorer II
Mar 18, 2016
As someone said, engine should be running to move the slides.

On the motor/gearbox there is a lever underneath the rubber boot. If you flip it it disengages the gears and you can run the slide in with a 1/2" drive ratchet.

Eat a bowl of Wheaties first.

I had a motor go bad and the symptom was going in slowly, only a few inches at a time, etc
Gonzo42
Explorer
Mar 18, 2016
I'll have to check further but I believe it is the gear rack and pinion type.

Yes there is a bundle of cables at the rear end of the slide behind the wall extension. Some for the reefer, electrical outlets, etc.

I'm also going to look for a manual slide actuator.
moisheh
Explorer
Mar 18, 2016
Having owned 2 FW DP's I do not think your unit has cables. The factory motor is marginal. Many owners have replaced the OEM motor with one from the American line. You definitely need to have the engine running. When the slide is out crawl underneath and you can see the exposed gears and rack. Spray them with Dri Lube. That helps a lot.
tommykelly
Explorer
Mar 18, 2016
on my 25g...the book recommends having engine running,or gen. running or shore power and not depend on just the house batteries to extend or retract slides.