I saw this string about CHF. Any concerns about going forward with CHF??: My Ford F53 18,000 lb chassis has two holes at the end of the sway bar. Sway bars work by twisting. That twist takes place between the brackets holding the sway bar to the axle. By using the second set of holes you "wow" is coming from the fact the sway bar is not twisting in that position. You might as well weld a chain to the axle and tie it to the frame. You are pulling on the end of the sway bar because it is almost a straight line between the bracket on the axle and the chassis. All F53 are laid out the same way. Mine is not unique. You are pulling on the axle with the sway bar ends. THINK TWIST when you're looking at it. Now if you moved the chassis mount point and then used the second hole maybe..... Doing it as described is, in my opinion , a big mistake. I would never experiment while on a trip. I've done the Alaska trip on nearly every road in Alaska except the "haul road". If it was rocking that bad, I'd be slowing down instead. I had high hopes this free fix would work.

I don't really understand the direction this posting is going. First the OP asks about concerns then followed by a statement that doing so is a big mistake. This is further followed by the statement "I had high hopes this free fix would work".30,000 miles and four years since I moved the end links on my 18,000 pound chassis with no problems. Windshield hasn't popped out, no unusual wear on the tires, no frame or bar mount deformities found, no stress cracks in the coach fiberglass body, no steering gear failures, no failures of the bar mounts, no failure of the end link mounts, no failure of the polyurethane bushings, no perceived loss in suspension performance. Coach tracks straight and holds lane position as well as my daily driver. Greatly reduced body sway on turns and tail wag from wind be it either weather or passing vehicles.The mod won't give an F53 a limo ride but will have the same effect as upgrading the sway bar with a heavier or stiffer after market bar but at no cost other than time.

There are many F53 owners, 99 F53 and above, that have done the CHF and are well pleased. I agree with the alignment of parts being questionable. Go look at Tejay's posts on IRV2.com. He has devised a fix for the problem. There are others that have purchased longer end links to cure the problem. It works if done correctly.Richard

mdecastra wrote:I saw this string about CHF. Any concerns about going forward with CHF??: My Ford F53 18,000 lb chassis has two holes at the end of the sway bar. Sway bars work by twisting. That twist takes place between the brackets holding the sway bar to the axle. By using the second set of holes you "wow" is coming from the fact the sway bar is not twisting in that position. You might as well weld a chain to the axle and tie it to the frame. You are pulling on the end of the sway bar because it is almost a straight line between the bracket on the axle and the chassis. All F53 are laid out the same way. Mine is not unique. You are pulling on the axle with the sway bar ends. THINK TWIST when you're looking at it. Now if you moved the chassis mount point and then used the second hole maybe..... Doing it as described is, in my opinion , a big mistake. I would never experiment while on a trip. I've done the Alaska trip on nearly every road in Alaska except the "haul road". If it was rocking that bad, I'd be slowing down instead. I had high hopes this free fix would work.OK..... shouldn't the sway bar be connected to the axle somewhere? Your argument doesn't make any sense. The sway bars on the F53 chassis are pretty close to 90 degrees, so moving the end links inboard, is in effect making the sway bar stiffer. Depending on which diff. housing you have, (you said you have the 18 K chassis, so I would think it is the smaller housing), and whether is mounted at the top or bottom of the housing, the end links may need to be lengthen. It not only helps with rocking, but also side winds, and more comfortable ride and driving. Have you really looked at your rear bar? I should have a "U" bend in it to clear the 3rd member at the extremes of travel. It takes so little time, you should probably just try it, and see if does help, and is to your liking.This reply to your post is not meant to offend you, just clarify and help people.

Many are very happy with the CHF and never had a problem. I still use it on the rear although it did tear off one bracket which I am replacing. If another bracket breaks I'll remove it. I discontinued using it in the front. It was too hard on the bushings.

Some may require a longer connecting rod to position the sway bar correctly in those moved to the second hole BUT many do not. Try to keep close to 90 degree angle between sway bar and connecting rod.

Ford F53 CHF (Cheap Handling Fix) | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

dahkota
Explorer
Nov 23, 2015
We did the chf after a day with 40 mph crosswinds in Texas. Since then, we have done 20,000 miles without a problem, including Alaska. We check it every few days of travel and see no signs of excessive wear and tear.

We did the haul road in Alaska and, while slowing down is often an option, I wouldn't do it in some of the deeper mud you may encounter.
PastorCharlie
Explorer
Nov 23, 2015
Some may require a longer connecting rod to position the sway bar correctly in those moved to the second hole BUT many do not. Try to keep close to 90 degree angle between sway bar and connecting rod.
WyoTraveler
Explorer
Nov 23, 2015
Many are very happy with the CHF and never had a problem. I still use it on the rear although it did tear off one bracket which I am replacing. If another bracket breaks I'll remove it. I discontinued using it in the front. It was too hard on the bushings.
wildmanbaker
Explorer
Nov 22, 2015
mdecastra wrote:
I saw this string about CHF. Any concerns about going forward with CHF??:

My Ford F53 18,000 lb chassis has two holes at the end of the sway bar. Sway bars work by twisting. That twist takes place between the brackets holding the sway bar to the axle. By using the second set of holes you "wow" is coming from the fact the sway bar is not twisting in that position. You might as well weld a chain to the axle and tie it to the frame. You are pulling on the end of the sway bar because it is almost a straight line between the bracket on the axle and the chassis. All F53 are laid out the same way. Mine is not unique. You are pulling on the axle with the sway bar ends. THINK TWIST when you're looking at it. Now if you moved the chassis mount point and then used the second hole maybe..... Doing it as described is, in my opinion , a big mistake. I would never experiment while on a trip. I've done the Alaska trip on nearly every road in Alaska except the "haul road". If it was rocking that bad, I'd be slowing down instead.

I had high hopes this free fix would work.

OK..... shouldn't the sway bar be connected to the axle somewhere? Your argument doesn't make any sense. The sway bars on the F53 chassis are pretty close to 90 degrees, so moving the end links inboard, is in effect making the sway bar stiffer. Depending on which diff. housing you have, (you said you have the 18 K chassis, so I would think it is the smaller housing), and whether is mounted at the top or bottom of the housing, the end links may need to be lengthen. It not only helps with rocking, but also side winds, and more comfortable ride and driving. Have you really looked at your rear bar? I should have a "U" bend in it to clear the 3rd member at the extremes of travel. It takes so little time, you should probably just try it, and see if does help, and is to your liking.

This reply to your post is not meant to offend you, just clarify and help people.
RLS7201
Explorer II
Nov 22, 2015
There are many F53 owners, 99 F53 and above, that have done the CHF and are well pleased. I agree with the alignment of parts being questionable. Go look at Tejay's posts on IRV2.com. He has devised a fix for the problem. There are others that have purchased longer end links to cure the problem. It works if done correctly.

Richard
Dale_Traveling
Explorer II
Nov 22, 2015
I don't really understand the direction this posting is going. First the OP asks about concerns then followed by a statement that doing so is a big mistake. This is further followed by the statement "I had high hopes this free fix would work".

30,000 miles and four years since I moved the end links on my 18,000 pound chassis with no problems. Windshield hasn't popped out, no unusual wear on the tires, no frame or bar mount deformities found, no stress cracks in the coach fiberglass body, no steering gear failures, no failures of the bar mounts, no failure of the end link mounts, no failure of the polyurethane bushings, no perceived loss in suspension performance. Coach tracks straight and holds lane position as well as my daily driver. Greatly reduced body sway on turns and tail wag from wind be it either weather or passing vehicles.

The mod won't give an F53 a limo ride but will have the same effect as upgrading the sway bar with a heavier or stiffer after market bar but at no cost other than time.

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Ford F53 CHF (Cheap Handling Fix)

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