Ford Spark Plug Problems?

theoldwizard1 wrote:
Field feedback said, use an impact on the plugs while the engine is hot. Fewer failures have resulted in this method.

I'd think same would apply to Two Valve Plugs, probably any of them.

I might do that on the Corolla, another Aluminum Head, but I can get at them and snatch all four while the motor's hot.

As somebody noted, a V10 isn't gonna stay hot for the time it takes to gain access and then remove 10 coils and remove 10 plugs!

That said, V10 in an F-Series, maybe four hours will work. I doubt an E-Series will be that quick.

j-d wrote:
Please let me know if you think HOT would be any benefit. I'd really rather not do that,and it's starting to sound like it'd be cold anyhow, by the time I took enough off to get at very many of the plugs.

I do not know if this applies to 2V engines, but 3V engines have issues with the original 2 piece spark plug breaking and leaving a portion in the head.

Ford had an elaborate procedure of wait for the engine to cool completely, soaking in penetrating oil, loosen an 1/8 turn, more penetrating oil, etc, etc. Field feedback said, use an impact on the plugs while the engine is hot. Fewer failures have resulted in this method.

It's been 100,000 miles for the last 20 years or more.

We have but 45000 miles. I haven't even looked up the recommended interval, but I don't think it was 100000 in the earlier years. My guess is Ford upped it from experience and for publicity reasons. To me that makes it something I can do at my leisure so to speak. One philosophy is don't give the plugs 100000 to have time and miles to really plant roots.

Be assured, I'm approaching this with extreme caution. How extreme? We bought this coach in 2008 and I have YET to take the doghouse off. Figurin' it won't bother me if I don't bother it...

When my 2001 F350 spit out a plug, the mechanic who fixed it said that the job of replacing all ten plugs is about a four hour job. How do you keep the motor hot for four hours?

It's a nonissue with adequate preventative maintenance. Some RV owners think they can take their Ford chassis to 100,000 miles before even thinking about spark plugs, which for the average RV can be pushing 20 years. At a minimum, pull, clean and check your spark plugs every few years and your odds of seeing this problem move from slim to virtually nil.

Just a comment here. A subject near to my heart. Mine: 2003 E350 V10 70k miles. (2003 Winnebago Mini 24V) Documented spark plugs changed at 65K by previous owner. All good so far. Cloud Driver - You da Man. Looking forward to your write up. Please know that you have helped me and I'm sure many others, a great deal by sharing your experience.....

CloudDriver wrote:
I plan to take some pictures and write up my experiences in getting this done.

@Drew: NOW I know when I'll change the plugs in our 2002 chassis year E450 V10. AFTER CloudDriver posts his Step-by-Step process!

NOBODY does things more carefully and NOBODY documents a project better.

Thinking I'll just play the thread like a PowerPoint and if I'm close enough, the plugs and coils might just change themselves. Probably have to take the dog house out first, though.

@CD: Your coach is a 2003, and so is ours. Ours is 2002 chassis year. Which is yours?

The shop I talked to said a key factor is being sure the new plugs are started true in the threads. I'm not worried about you, but the shop heard of others putting the plug in the socket and extension then driving it with an Air Tool! They told me spraying a penetrant won't help because the seated plug won't admit it to the threads. I want to be sure the cavity the plug sits at the bottom of, is CLEAN before I loosen. Even if I have to make a long nose adapter for my blow gun.

I've heard of breaking the plug loose then applying Blaster or the like then letting it soak. But I don't see any need if the plug spins out once loose.

Sounds like you're working on a cold engine. Please let me know if you think HOT would be any benefit. I'd really rather not do that,and it's starting to sound like it'd be cold anyhow, by the time I took enough off to get at very many of the plugs.

j-d wrote:
... no three-valve ever got into an E-Series Ford.

CONCUR !

From Wikipedia]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Modular_engine#Spark_plug_issues

2-valve 4.6 L, 5.4 L, and 6.8 L engines found in many 1997-2008 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles may have aluminum cylinder heads with threads for spark plugs that are stripped, missing, or otherwise insufficiently bored out. Ford acknowledges this issue in TSB 07-21-2 as well as earlier TSBs. Ford's TSB does not state that this issue is caused by owner neglect. Ford's only authorized repair procedure for out-of-warranty vehicles is to use the LOCK-N-STITCH aluminum insert and tool kit. For vehicles under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, Ford will only cover the replacement of the entire cylinder head; however, the Ford recommended spark plug service interval extends beyond the duration of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Timely thread. We had some mis-firing on our trip two weeks ago to the Outer Banks. With 106,000 on the odometer I knew we were pushing it with the spark plug change.

When we got home Google found some threads on Ford forums and U-Tube videos about doing this job. Most were for trucks rather than motorhomes, but the suggestions were good. So far I have removed the driver and passenger seats to get easier access and I'm hoping I can do the entire job myself. True that there isn't much room to work and a lot in the way. I removed the right rear coil and spark plug, which was the easiest to get to. I wanted to be sure to get the right replacements from the Ford parts guy. All new coils as well as plugs as my goal is that this will be a once in a lifetime job.

I plan to take some pictures and write up my experiences in getting this done.

BTW, I counted 8 threads on the spark plug. Once I broke it loose, it unscrewed easily. Hopefully a sign of good things to come.