Fridge on 12V killing the batteries
Just came back from the shop where I got my new batteries after I toasted my first set. I got them replaced 5 months ago, and already they were performing poorly, even thought they were supposed to be...
Forum Discussion
one question
is this fridge a 3way ? LP, 120v and 12v
or
do you mean the fridge is running the 120v heater via the inverter using battery power
charge or not charged
340w electric heating element means 30amps draw feeding the inverter
you can not do that when parked with no hook ups
has nothing to do with driving and alternator charging
you are killing the battery
12v heating element 20+ amps for 'maintaining' not cooling
120v element 30 amps into inverter for cooling
when parked use the LP, only use electric while driving
better to use LP all the time if you can
PinaoTuna can tell you about using an RV absorption fridge on inverter and its a real battery sucker, he has a beefed up battery bank and solar
and at the end of a days driving, his battery level is down some..the alternator can not keep up with the added draw of the fridge
theoretical comments aside, about what should be happening
you have to measure voltage and AMPS to know what is really going on
until you measure the voltage and amps at the batteries and verify that they are charging while the fridge is on 12v
you are only assuming that everything is working correctly and they are being charged instead of discharged, just because the engine batteries are holding steady does not mean the house batteries powering the fridge , are doing so
NOW if you have a 12vdc only fridge NOT cooler, but a Fridge with Dan Foss variable speed compressor
they only use 3-4amps of battery power when cycling
Edit
i see PT answered before i finished composing my post
is this fridge a 3way ? LP, 120v and 12v
or
do you mean the fridge is running the 120v heater via the inverter using battery power
charge or not charged
340w electric heating element means 30amps draw feeding the inverter
you can not do that when parked with no hook ups
has nothing to do with driving and alternator charging
you are killing the battery
12v heating element 20+ amps for 'maintaining' not cooling
120v element 30 amps into inverter for cooling
when parked use the LP, only use electric while driving
better to use LP all the time if you can
PinaoTuna can tell you about using an RV absorption fridge on inverter and its a real battery sucker, he has a beefed up battery bank and solar
and at the end of a days driving, his battery level is down some..the alternator can not keep up with the added draw of the fridge
theoretical comments aside, about what should be happening
you have to measure voltage and AMPS to know what is really going on
Excuse my wording about fully charging the batteries in two hours. I am not asking how to charge batteries. I was simply trying to make a point to the battery vendor that since the batteries have MORE charge after a drive and the fridge only draws 12V when the engine is running, then it can not be bad for the batteries: They are being charged, not drained.
Clear enough?
until you measure the voltage and amps at the batteries and verify that they are charging while the fridge is on 12v
you are only assuming that everything is working correctly and they are being charged instead of discharged, just because the engine batteries are holding steady does not mean the house batteries powering the fridge , are doing so
NOW if you have a 12vdc only fridge NOT cooler, but a Fridge with Dan Foss variable speed compressor
they only use 3-4amps of battery power when cycling
Edit
i see PT answered before i finished composing my post
