Front Hood Hinge

Thanks for all the advice. Not sure which route I will take yet. Very cold here so I doubt that most epoxies would work well. Next week it is supposed to get up to 50 so if I can find a spot out of the rain it might be a good day to examine it and look for a solution. It's good to know it isn't due to something I did incorrectly.

I used an epoxy to reglue/attach my hood center latch on my coach

I went with stove bolts. Painted them to match the area and they are not noticeable at all. I think they should have been done that way to start with.

A good epoxy and drill out for bolts is what I'd do.

I had the problem on my 2003 Itasca Sunova. I went the nut and bolt route with very large fender washers. On my drop down hood, the holes for the nut and bolts are hidden behind the hood when it is in normal position for driving.

I did have that problem with one hinge on my previous Adventurer. I used Liquid Solder two part epoxy. The repair lasted the 8 years or so until I traded in the coach.

n3bud wrote:
I closed the front hood on my 2002 Winnebago Journey DL today and one of the hinges came loose. IT appears as if it were held in place by a melted green plastic or glue. Any ideas on how to repair other than drilling and installing nuts and bolts?

n3bud,
This is a common problem with Winnes and Itascas. I say "common" because it's been reported on here a few times. That doesn't mean each and every Winne and Itasca ever made has had the issue. Far from it. They used a form of an epoxy to afix many of the bracketry to the fiberglass backside panels. That includes but, is not limited to deck lids, rear grills, pivoting grills and hoods, headlight brackets, fog light brackets. front cap mounts, and a whole lot more.

The subject's been discussed here oh, about a thousand times. As for what to do? Well, that too has been discussed. Many have used multiple forms of two-part epoxy, silicone, fiberglass mat with resin, Marine Tex, Sikaflex, and more.

In the process of adhesion, Winne in these cases, failed the proper technique in prepping both surfaces. Usually it was/is the metal part. It was not properly setup for the attaching of the glue, what ever they used back then. So, the proper thing to do is, if you can, get in there and with some seriously strong grit sand paper, rough up that metal side of each of the brackets that have become dislodged. You can do that to the old glue too. Then, wipe it all down, multiple times with alcohol.

As for the glue/adhesive, take your pic of what's mentioned above and or, what ever you come up with. I used Marine Tex 'cause I had it. The front end (where my issue was) will have to be in a train wreck in order for those re-glued places to come loose again. Many have used "Gorilla" glue too and have had great success.

Many have used regular fiberglass matting and resin to make the repair. I wouldn't go through the hassle of calling the manufacturer. It was their glue and prep that failed in the first place. Just go get a good epoxy and be done with it. As for installing "screws and or bolts" through your nice looking fiberglass, that is certainly up to you. Proper prep and re-attachment with good epoxy or, Marine Tex or fiberglass or whatever you choose, will hold. Good luck.
Scott

I guess they could not make it any cheaper, Use some slow gel epoxy
and at least 2 nuts & bolts on each side.
Siggy