To change Pads and Calipers ONLY, Very Easy.
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/39.cfm
Loosen Lugs, Jack Up, Support Axle on Stands/Jacks, Remove Wheel
Pry the Caliper inboard so it compresses the Piston, Loosening the Pads
Remove Caliper Slide Bolts, may be hex nuts or internal TORX
Prepare Brake Line Caps. I used short pieces of wiper hose with a golf tee in the end
Disconnect Hose at Chassis and Cap Immediately, unclip Hose from ABS wire, use a Tubing Wrench to Loosen and Tighten the Hose Fitting
Lift Caliper, Hose and Pads off the Caliper Mounting Bracket
Replace ALL those Parts, Hose Included
Apply Brake Lubricant such as
Reassemble
Siphon brake fluid out of Master Cylinder till Reservoir is almost BUT NOT empty, then FILL with NEW Fluid
Bleed Brakes NEVER ALLOWING MASTER CYLINDER TO GO EMPTY!!!
Reinstall Wheel, set on Ground, Torque Nuts to 140
Only moderate braking till Pads settle in
To remove ROTORS, you need a 21mm socket/wrench, 13/16" may fit if you get all the rust off the bolt heads, 7/8" SIX Point may also work, and they are TIGHT, about the same as those Wheel Nuts at 140
Remove Caliper Bracket Bolts and Bracket, then Dust Cap and Bearing Nuts/Bearings/Seals etc to re-pack your Bearings
If you need to Re-Surface or to Replace your ROTORS, I suggest you find late model take-off parts from a 4x4 conversion outfit. The parts will cost no more than a "complete" brake job of Rotors, Bearings, Hoses, Calipers, and Pads. You get all-new, Bigger and Better Brakes that are Plug and Play. I didn't even re-pack the Bearings.
Nearest to you is
UJoint in Fletcher NC near I-26 about 20 miles your side of Asheville. E350 and E450 dual rear wheel vehicles "donate" the same front brakes.
I got my "kit" from Quigley Motors in central PA, and I got axles and all. That provides all-new Ball Joints, Bushings, and an upgraded Radius Arm design. They crated it and I arranged shipping. The palletized carton weight 400 lb and fit in my compact pickup.
