Fullsize Chevy truck as a toad

We flat towed a 5600 lb. Suburban With a 99 motor home with a V-10. We had a 6000 lb. Rated hitch. We live at 6500 ft. And crossed 11000 ft. Passes in CO. Just took our time and geared down. It is doable. No matter how you do it get braking system for whatever you tow.

If your truck is 4 wheel drive and you can put the tranfer case in Nuetral it can be towed 4 down with no issues ... depending on the year you may have to pull a fuse or something.

"Brandon327".....I towed my Chevrolet Silverado for 5 years behind my DP. Obviously, my DP was more suited for towing the truck. My 2012 Silverado Crew Cab 4x4 weighed in at about 5500 pounds. I can tell you, even with my DP, in certain situations, I could feel the truck push on the back of my DP.

You would at minimum need a good toad braking system and really be cognizant of the weight of the truck on grades and emergency situations.

Brandon327 wrote:
Well I am going at backwards from the way most people do I guess. I have the truck already and I don't want to buy another vehicle just to tow behind a motor home. So I am trying to choose a motor home based on my toad. I want a diesel pusher but I don't want to spend that amount a money in one.

do you know what your truck weighs with a full tank of fuel but otherwise empty?

Well I am going at backwards from the way most people do I guess. I have the truck already and I don't want to buy another vehicle just to tow behind a motor home. So I am trying to choose a motor home based on my toad. I want a diesel pusher but I don't want to spend that amount a money in one.

suggest you weigh your full size PU with a full tank of fuel but otherwise empty. that will be your base weight.

in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

- the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.)

- the weight rating of your tow bar

- the weight rating of your hitch

this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs as it is loaded and configure for travel before choosing a toad. Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc.

afrescop wrote:
Insurance company is under no obligation to pay a claim if they find out you are towing over manufacturer limits.

Unless you have a insurance policy with a written exclusion for towing over the manufacturers weight limits, the above statement is completely false.

I used to be in the insurance industry, and have friends that still are. I have NEVER heard of a policy with that type of exclusion.

You need to make sure the hitch is rated for whatever you are towing

You need to make sure the tow capacity is rated for what you are towing.

Make sure you have a good supplemental braking system on the toad.


After that, all that happens is you get up the hills a little slower. Meh

We towed this for years while we were exploring Mexico with the little rig. Towed well. All within spec. Angela would slide under and disconnect the driveshaft and suspend it in a hangar. 4 or 5 minutes.

I'll be honest, and I'm not a tow dictator.... I would not tow a truck behind a V10 gasser. I'm not saying it can't be done... If you were on flats mostly OK, but any form of grades of hills it may get white knuckly. They are just such large vehicles...

Almost any other car I'd be comfortable with. Especially a 4 cylinder. A small car like a Toyota Yaris standard can be towed behind just about anything (my bounder is fine) except for the Toyota RV's that have 4 cylinders themselves.

Also, if it's a 4x4 it can be towed without modifications such as a drive shaft disconnect.