Help! Safe-T Alarm low battery alert keeps going off...

As I have advised others, buy a digital multi-meter from Harbor Freight, etc (around $10). Set the meter on the 20 volt DC scale. Touch the black test lead to the NEGATIVE terminal and the red test lead to the positive terminal of the house battery. You should see 12.6 or 12.7 with engine off and rig not connected to 110 volt AC shore/camp power.. If connected to shore/camp power, or with RV generator running, you should read around 13.6 volts DC. If not connected to shore power, but with engine running, the house battery should read around 14 volts. Remove the caps on house battery and make sure electrolyte fluid covers the plates inside the battery. If needed, add distilled water with a "turkey baster" from the auto supply store, to cover the plates. Remove the battery connector clamps and remove any corrosion with sandpaper or battery connector cleaning tool. Be sure to reconnect any wires with ring terminals when tightening the connector clamps. It is likely you'll need to replace the house battery with a deep cycle RV battery and the starting battery with a good quality battery rated for your vehicle. With your older rig, you may want to replace the converter charger with a new Progressive Dynamics one that will keep your batteries charged but not overcharged and won't boil out the electrolyte. With charging systems working properly and with good fully charged batteries, you should be able to camp for three days without electrical hookups. ( But not if you run the furnace, it's blower uses a lot of electrical power overnight). Your roof air conditioner needs to have shore power or RV generator running to operate.

You definitely need to locate all of your batteries on the setup you have. You should have your truck start battery and in another location you will have your 'coach' battery. Sometimes this may under the steps.

This is probably the battery giving you the problem.

Like said above reading across the coach battery terminals you should read 12.6-7VDC if it is fully charged. When you connect up to shore power or generator this DC VOLTAGE should jump up to 13.6VDC or what ever mode your on-board converter/charger unit is doing. If you do not see these DC VOLTAGE changes on the 'COACH' battery terminals it may be some sort of BATTERY DISCONNECT switch may be engaged...

It takes more hours then you think to charge up a deep cycle battery.

This is what PROGRESSIVE Dynamics states in their operating manual on how long it takes to charge a battery using the DC VOLTAGEs listed below: "Progressive Dynamics ran this test on the amount of time it took a PD9155 (55-amp) converter/charger set to three different output voltages to recharge a 125 AH (Amp Hour) battery after it was fully discharged to 10.5-volts.
14.4-VOLTS (Boost Mode) – Returned the battery to 90% of full charge in approximately 3-hours. The battery reached full charge in approximately 11 hours.

13.6-VOLTS (Normal Mode) – Required 40-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78-hours to reach full charge.

13.2-VOLTS (Storage Mode) – Required 60-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 100-hours to reach full charge."

This is based on having 17-20AMPS DC current available for each battery in your battery bank... NOTE That Progressive Dynamics doesn't even list using DC Charge Voltages around the 12.0VC range as this would take alot more than 100 hours to achieve a 90% or 100% charge state.

Based on your camper age it is doubtful you have a modern smart mode converter/charger on-board and what you have for a a charger is most likley a 13.6 charging setup. so based on this it may required 40-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78-hours to reach full charge. Pretty long time HUH...

If your battery has not been fully charged in a long time it is probably easy to say your coach battery is history now... Once you find it check the battery fluids and try to get a charge going on it alone... If you camper has sitting around for a few years I would count on replacing the 'coach' battery setup...

You have inherited a perfect sized camper... Would love to have one of those haha

Roy Ken

Another thought. If you are interested in learning more about the 12v electrical system in your RV, look at "The 12 volt side of life".

The 12 volt side of life.

It takes a lot of current to start the generator or the engine. Running either for just a few minutes will not fully recharge the battery. Perhaps the "low battery" alarm is just doing it's job. Measure the battery voltage when the alarm starts beeping. If it's fully charged it should read about 12.6v if it's not being charged. If it's less than 12.0v, the battery is discharged.

If you keep the RV plugged in, the converter should recharge the battery. When being charged, the battery should read 13.2v to 14.5v depending on your converter and the battery state of charge

Hi- I would check the date code on the detector, the smoke detectors, fire extinguishers and replace if past the expiration dates.
I know someone else will help with the low battery issue