Hi, all - Newbie with a bunch of questions
Hi, everybody, I've been lurking for a couple of months and finally decided to register and post. We're tent campers who are toying with the idea of a small MH, so I'd like to tap your collectiv...
Forum Discussion
A couple comments:
1: Well answered by others.
2: 1-2 MPG at most. I personally prefer a "C" over a "B" because the cabover gives some extra usable space, as well as another sleeping area. Caveat: It needs to either be made from fiberglass, or have a fiberglass front (Ron Dittmar has a very excellent post on this.) If it doesn't, it will leak, since the water is driven through corner seams at 65+ MPH. A fiberglass cap diverts water to non-corner seams.
3: If you can drive a U-haul van, you can drive a "C". With some steering upgrades, people have Ford E350/E450 "C"s riding very smoothly.
4: 100k miles is very common. Nothing is perfect, and a class "C" has a lot of stuff that can break or need upkeep.
5: 15 years old means you might bump into the 10 year rule at some RV parks (where a 11 model year or older rig will get shown the exit.)
6: Very low if the rig is maintained, but keep the ERS card up to date. The days of the radiator cap popping off and the engine blowing in the middle of nowhere for no reason are (for the most part) past us. Worst case, you might get a flat, and if it is in the rear, you can run on the other dually until you find a safe place. Of course, Good Sam or other service is something good to have.
7: Use a level, and if the driveway is within the refrigerator's spec, you have nothing to worry about. If the driveway is past 3 degrees of plumb, don't turn on the fridge (assuming an absorption fridge).
8: Wide margins. Check NADA values, but be prepared to push hard and even walk if there is damage (mice and rats can trash a rig, so can ants.)
Just don't get your heart set on a model that has water damage. If it has it, walk.
1: Well answered by others.
2: 1-2 MPG at most. I personally prefer a "C" over a "B" because the cabover gives some extra usable space, as well as another sleeping area. Caveat: It needs to either be made from fiberglass, or have a fiberglass front (Ron Dittmar has a very excellent post on this.) If it doesn't, it will leak, since the water is driven through corner seams at 65+ MPH. A fiberglass cap diverts water to non-corner seams.
3: If you can drive a U-haul van, you can drive a "C". With some steering upgrades, people have Ford E350/E450 "C"s riding very smoothly.
4: 100k miles is very common. Nothing is perfect, and a class "C" has a lot of stuff that can break or need upkeep.
5: 15 years old means you might bump into the 10 year rule at some RV parks (where a 11 model year or older rig will get shown the exit.)
6: Very low if the rig is maintained, but keep the ERS card up to date. The days of the radiator cap popping off and the engine blowing in the middle of nowhere for no reason are (for the most part) past us. Worst case, you might get a flat, and if it is in the rear, you can run on the other dually until you find a safe place. Of course, Good Sam or other service is something good to have.
7: Use a level, and if the driveway is within the refrigerator's spec, you have nothing to worry about. If the driveway is past 3 degrees of plumb, don't turn on the fridge (assuming an absorption fridge).
8: Wide margins. Check NADA values, but be prepared to push hard and even walk if there is damage (mice and rats can trash a rig, so can ants.)
Just don't get your heart set on a model that has water damage. If it has it, walk.
