Forum Discussion
PghBob
Aug 17, 2013Explorer
Hi Karyj:
I will provide my opinion on several of your questions and raise a topic that you might not have made aware of on the forum.
Question 2 Mileage. It will depend on where and how you drive. I tend to drive the speed limit, and my mileage has ranged from a lowly 7.5 mpg to a max of 10.9 in our 27 foot RV.
Question 3 Driving. Having had vans also, I will tell you that it NOT the same as driving cars or vans. It requires a bit more work at the wheel. Also, the driver(s) will need to become adept at using and having confidence in the rear view mirrors on your rig. This is important not only for backing up, but also when switching lanes on the highway. Finally, you will need to learn to adjust for "tail swing". Because most Class Cs have considerable length beyond the rear wheels, when you turn the front of the rig in one direction, the rear of the rig moves in the opposite direction. This is important, not only when parking, but also in gas stations. Pick your gas pump carefully!
Question 4 Engine. I know you are looking at older rigs. Make every attempt to get an engine with fuel injection verses carb. The fuel injected models reportedly get improved fuel mileage and are easier to repair.
The one issue you did not ask about but is very important is the Occupant and Cargo Carrying Capacity of the rig. This is the max weight any chassis can carry when loaded with fuel, propane, food, water, gray and black tanks, and people. Basically, you and your stuff. Different chassis have different limits. And, options on the rig, like slideouts or leveling systems, add weight to the chassis which effectively reduces the amount of people and stuff you can carry. An overloaded chassis is dangerous and can lead to tire and suspension failures. It has been reported that over 50% of RVs on the road are overloaded. Try to determine the OCCC of the rig you are interested in before you buy to make sure it can carry the people and stuff you need on your trips.
Best wishes,
Bob
I will provide my opinion on several of your questions and raise a topic that you might not have made aware of on the forum.
Question 2 Mileage. It will depend on where and how you drive. I tend to drive the speed limit, and my mileage has ranged from a lowly 7.5 mpg to a max of 10.9 in our 27 foot RV.
Question 3 Driving. Having had vans also, I will tell you that it NOT the same as driving cars or vans. It requires a bit more work at the wheel. Also, the driver(s) will need to become adept at using and having confidence in the rear view mirrors on your rig. This is important not only for backing up, but also when switching lanes on the highway. Finally, you will need to learn to adjust for "tail swing". Because most Class Cs have considerable length beyond the rear wheels, when you turn the front of the rig in one direction, the rear of the rig moves in the opposite direction. This is important, not only when parking, but also in gas stations. Pick your gas pump carefully!
Question 4 Engine. I know you are looking at older rigs. Make every attempt to get an engine with fuel injection verses carb. The fuel injected models reportedly get improved fuel mileage and are easier to repair.
The one issue you did not ask about but is very important is the Occupant and Cargo Carrying Capacity of the rig. This is the max weight any chassis can carry when loaded with fuel, propane, food, water, gray and black tanks, and people. Basically, you and your stuff. Different chassis have different limits. And, options on the rig, like slideouts or leveling systems, add weight to the chassis which effectively reduces the amount of people and stuff you can carry. An overloaded chassis is dangerous and can lead to tire and suspension failures. It has been reported that over 50% of RVs on the road are overloaded. Try to determine the OCCC of the rig you are interested in before you buy to make sure it can carry the people and stuff you need on your trips.
Best wishes,
Bob
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