Forum Discussion

janstey58's avatar
janstey58
Explorer
Nov 18, 2016

Hot Water Heater Check Valve Failure

Hi All, I was starting to winterize my MH last night, and had the H2O heater drained with the plug out. I started to pump anti-freeze into the plumbing via the winterizing bypass tube, and noticed anti-freeze draining from the H2O heater. I Googled the issue and it seems to point to a bad check valve on the H2O heater on the hot out side. My H2O heater is buried underneath cabinetry and flooring, so beyond my means to reach it. There is exposed PEX piping in a outside compartment near the single valve winterization bypass. I am looking for alternative ways to winterize without fixing the check valve, as it does not impact normal camping season operation, and suggestions? Thx!
Class A

10 Replies

  • Our_Ride's avatar
    Our_Ride
    Explorer
    Nov 25, 2016
    Hello we went through this same problem with our 2007 Winnebago Journey. The trick is to do all your winterizing first and leave the hot water tank full and make it the very last thing to do. The bypass valve will work perfectly. Hope this helps.
  • janstey58's avatar
    janstey58
    Explorer
    Nov 21, 2016
    Thanks for all of the advise, I am going to go the pressurized air route and be done with it. After all, the plumbing all works in non-winterized mode. Thx!
  • dougrainer's avatar
    dougrainer
    Nomad
    Nov 19, 2016
    Jim@HiTek wrote:
    Might be best to not bother with the antifreeze, instead use air to clear your plumbing.

    Next spring, find a pipe near the heater and add a check valve there. Don't bother removing the old check valve.

    Also, RV water heaters are suppose to be removable from the outside. No need to cut holes in floors and such. Suppose to be that way. Doesn't always happen, so I'd suggest a call to the manufacture and ask to talk to a plumbing tech.


    RV water heaters do come out from the outside. BUT, depending on the OEM, HOW much flex is included in the LP/120 and rear water lines may make it difficult to do without accessing the rear of the water heater from the inside. Some OEM's if the water heater is down LOW on a sidewall may have a removable access panel from the underside of the RV to access the water line connections. Calling a OEM maker and asking this type question is futile. NONE of the OEM's would have anybody that could answer this type question. They build so many different models and variations and over the course of years, they would have nobody that would have that kind of knowledge. Doug
  • Jim's avatar
    Jim
    Explorer
    Nov 19, 2016
    Might be best to not bother with the antifreeze, instead use air to clear your plumbing.

    Next spring, find a pipe near the heater and add a check valve there. Don't bother removing the old check valve.

    Also, RV water heaters are suppose to be removable from the outside. No need to cut holes in floors and such. Suppose to be that way. Doesn't always happen, so I'd suggest a call to the manufacture and ask to talk to a plumbing tech.
  • Razorback's avatar
    Razorback
    Explorer
    Nov 19, 2016
    Mine does the same thing (98 bounder) but if I put the plug back in the tank does not fill.
  • dougrainer's avatar
    dougrainer
    Nomad
    Nov 19, 2016
    Easiest way is to buy 6 more gallons of antifreeze(or 10 if you have a 10 gallon heater) install the drain plug and then pump the system full of antifreeze. Once done have a catch can and then drain that 6 gallons of antifreeze from the Water Heater and save for the next time you winterize. Doug
  • donn0128's avatar
    donn0128
    Explorer II
    Nov 18, 2016
    Actually it will impact future use. Replace it. It is going to be in the top port.

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