House batteries

bobndot wrote:
I run 100w solar on the roof thru an MPPT and a BIM , it keeps my 2 grp 27 deep cycles as well as keeps my chassis battery at a full charge 12.7v while parked. In the event that I'm parked on a shaded site, I have an additional 100w on the ground as a portable system in case of heavy tree cover.


Try to limit what you are drawing off your batts. To conserve my 12v power, I installed a toggle switch on my LP detector which draws about a 1/2 amp. I use a portable battery operated carbon monoxide detector.
I also have a toggle on the radio as well unplugging my tv.
* Some models of power roof vents might have a constant 12v draw while off. If you find that you are experiencing a slight draw with everything off, look into that vent. I forget which brand it was on the vent we found the draw on. It might have been a thermostat or rain sensor in stand-by mode, not sure.

I now have no draw on my coach unless im using something requiring 12v power.
Mr Buddy takes care of my heating **unless it drops below 32F, then I let the furnace kick on because all my water lines plastic valves and water pump are heated thru the furnace.
My 2 grp 27's never drop below 12.2-12.3v after running the furnace during the night an 28-30F outside temp, with the rv thermostat set at 64F. My interior lighting are LED's with very little draw.
An rvs insulation R value and dual pane windows or not will probably have an effect on furnace run time.

P.S. when I say 'full charge' I realize its really probably 90%. Close enough .

I've suspected my propane detector of drawing around 1/2 amp all the time, too. When you have it switched off, what do you replace it with for 24/7 propane leak detection? I think battery powered propane leak detectors are difficult to find, if they exist at all.

The stock carbon monoxide detector that came in our RV is battery powered anyway, so I just change it's 9V battery about once a year.