How do you Deal with Test Drivers when Selling?

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Ask for their Drivers License.......make a copy of it.

Then get in passengers seat and go for a ride.

IF at any time you feel uncomfortable ask that they pull over and swap seats...ride over.

When I did a test drive at a dealer, not only did they ask for a copy of my drivers license, they also made a copy of my current vehicle proof of insurance. I realize it would be a hairy legal issue as to who is really at fault and who pays what, but if you have a copy of their insurance card ahead of time, you won't have to fight to get it after wards, and you can let the insurance companies do the arguing.

A reasonable alternative for BOTH buyer and seller. Make the test drive one of the LAST step in the process.

So, agree on price, buyer finance etc lined up with sale "subject to"....

Typical "subject to" are: Inspection satisfactory to buyer (performed by buyer or inspector chosen by and paid by the buyer) and test drive satisfactory to the buyer.

Done this as seller, buyer and many many times as mechanical inspector for the buyer.

Sure, if major issues are found during inspection or on test drive, the price is renegotiable.

I would NEVER buy any RV or other vehicle without a thorough test drive. I need to now how the engine runs, hot and cold, how well the transmission shifts, if there is vibration at low or high speeds, how well the brakes work, etc. etc. etc. etc. I would interpret any reluctance on the part of the owner to let me drive the rig as ipso facto proof that there was something wrong about it that he didn't want me to know.

You see, in this kind of private transaction, there's something called "asymmetry of information." The seller knows more--MUCH more--about the vehicle than the buyer does. The seller, to address this, should offer some kind of assurance. Many used vehicle dealers offer a warranty. If you are unwilling to do that, then being willing to offer a test drive connotes honesty and sincerity. Conversely, being unwilling or reluctant to have a prospective buyer drive the vehicle connotes dishonestly and suggests that you are concealing something.

So how do you "deal with" this? Simply quell your existential fears about someone else driving your rig for a few blocks and realize that no sane buyer would ever even think about purchasing an RV unless he could take it for a thorough test drive. Remember, it's not all about you and your fears. The buyer is at least as much afraid that he'll be buying a rig that, it will become apparent, needs $8000 worth of work.

I agree with wildtoad, to a point. However, when I got a bad feeling from a looker; ie pointing out how over priced I was, exaggerating about every flaw no matter how minor, stating that he didn't really like the unit and so on; I just politely asked them to move on, there's nothing to see here. This was often the one who would then ask to take the unit for a test drive. No way would I let them. I know I missed a lot of potential sales, but I know I kept myself out of some bad situations. I trust my gut. I think I should have added that I would not refuse a test drive to everyone. No one would want to buy without a test drive.

Ask for their Drivers License.......make a copy of it.

Then get in passengers seat and go for a ride.

IF at any time you feel uncomfortable ask that they pull over and swap seats...ride over.

gbopp wrote:
Just go with the buyer and offer tips/advice if you feel it's needed.

One of the joys of selling it yourself is you get to deal with tire kickers as well as the qualified buyers. Make sure it is the last thing you offer to do. Let them go over the inside, outside, engine. Let them ask all the detail questions they like and after all that they want to take it for a ride, then fine.

When I bought our Class A, I got in and drove it. The owner was in the passenger seat.
I had no problems. Just go with the buyer and offer tips/advice if you feel it's needed.

Never sold a motorhome, but a regular car or two. Maybe drive your rig to an empty parking lot or quiet subdivision first before turning over the wheel?

As a buyer, I'd never jump through many hoops if I wanted to take a test drive. I thought Class C were based on a heavy duty van / truck chassis, is there something special to driving one?