How do you level a motorhome front to back?

With our 24 foot long rig, about half the time I am able to level the motor home good enough without the use of blocks because the camp sites we often stay in are uneven. Parking pads with pot holes and ruts actually help. I stuck a Hoppy level on the driver door and dash (one left/right, one front/rear) by me the driver. I'll maneuver the rig a little this way and that way, watching the two levels. Hoppy is a brand, but there are numerous brands & styles of those small levels. I found mine at Walmart in the RV section of the automotive department.

For when it's just too far off, out come the Lynx Leveler blocks. I like them for being compact and light weight, both hot commodities with motor homes.

I have a set of 4 Anderson levelers exactly like the ones shown in an earlier post

These raise the Wheel up by a max of 4 inches, but I found that last time we camped it still didn't make the RV level (it was still quite a bit out according to our circular spirit level)

The fridge still worked OK - but has anyone else found this - using one of these types of levelers to raise the wheel to the max - but still not being level

If you foudn this - did you take any additional action?

Chris

Sometimes just moving aback or pulling forward will work if not Anderson Levelers.
Love the Anderson's no guessing how many blocks/boards.

Our 20 foot class C has a bit of an advantage. The wheels aren't as far apart and usually I can find a location in the site that is level.

If three wheels are low, I dig a wee hole with the axe for the one that isn't low.

I have been using pieces of 2x6 that are long enough to do both wheels of a dual pair at once. This season I am going with shorter pieces for each wheel. And they are tapered on one end.

Drew ... right you are regarding deploying only in pairs!!!

(I probably should have drank another cup of coffee before I posted. :) )

pnichols wrote:

Jim Shoe wrote:
One of the best things I added to my Fleetwood E-450 'C' was HWH kick down jacks. They deploy in pairs, front or back two, or left or right two. A display is mounted over the dog house showing which button to push until the light goes out. When they're all out, I'm level. Not cheap, but worth every penny when its pouring rain outside, and deploying in pairs keeps the frame from twisting.

Deploying only in pairs?

Hmmm .... we have to level our Class C a lot using by raising one end at the same time as one side. We have to do this on canted camping surfaces. We have found that rarely is a site only low on one end of the the RV or low on one side of the RV. No twisting of the RV's frame results from having to raise at three points because the frame of course winds up level.

I would think that an automatic leveling system would do whatever it had to do with up to three of it's jacks on three corners in order for the coach floor to become level on canted surfaces. In fact, on canted surfaces lifting with only one pair would cause the frame to have to be twisted due to one corner not being in a plane with the others.

I believe what is actually meant is that they adjust only in pairs (once contact is made with the ground). Leveling diagonally merely requires doing two successive operations, side-to-side and front-to-back (or vice-versa). The systems don't let you raise or lower just one corner independently of all the other jacks to avoid torquing the frame excessively.

Jim Shoe wrote:
One of the best things I added to my Fleetwood E-450 'C' was HWH kick down jacks. They deploy in pairs, front or back two, or left or right two. A display is mounted over the dog house showing which button to push until the light goes out. When they're all out, I'm level. Not cheap, but worth every penny when its pouring rain outside, and deploying in pairs keeps the frame from twisting.

Deploying only in pairs?

Hmmm .... we have to level our Class C a lot using by raising one end at the same time as one side. We have to do this on canted camping surfaces. We have found that rarely is a site only low on one end of the the RV or low on one side of the RV. No twisting of the RV's frame results from having to raise at three points because the frame of course winds up level.

I would think that an automatic leveling system would do whatever it had to do with up to three of it's jacks on three corners in order for the coach floor to become level on canted surfaces. In fact, on canted surfaces lifting with only one pair would cause the frame to have to be twisted due to one corner not being in a plane with the others.

One of the best things I added to my Fleetwood E-450 'C' was HWH kick down jacks. They deploy in pairs, front or back two, or left or right two. A display is mounted over the dog house showing which button to push until the light goes out. When they're all out, I'm level. Not cheap, but worth every penny when its pouring rain outside, and deploying in pairs keeps the frame from twisting.
The 'C' came standard with a walk around short Queen platform bed. I bought a better mattress after the first road trip. MUCH better.
Finally, I removed the so called mattress over the cab, lined it with rolls of the "sticky" stuff and plastic containers to keep things I don't use that often from bouncing off my head. Made plenty of room in the outside rear storage areas. Especially after I removed the entire set of metric tools that I bought. No metric bolts, you know. With the extra rear space I added another 30A electric cord, another stinky slinky, and another water hose. Haven't needed them often, but when you're one foot short...

pnichols wrote:
Often we don't want the RV level. We may want the rear to end up slightly high for better sleeping.

I raised the head of the bed so when the RV is level, the head is higher than the foot of the bed. Easier than raising the rear on a level site.

coolmom42 wrote:
How do you level a class C from front to back...?

Front to back and side to side at the same time.



Tim