Forum Discussion

hotjag1's avatar
hotjag1
Explorer II
Apr 06, 2015

How to level without popping a windshield???

My last 4 MH's had leveling jacks and I never even thought about popping a windshield, or had one do that.

Well, the ground on the side of my house where I park my current MH, slopes to the left a fair amount. I had to raise the left side to the point that the left rear tire is about an inch off the ground, which I have done with other MH's, and it was never a problem.

Yesterday, I noticed that the top left corner of the left side windshield is popped out away from the weather stripping. It also looks like the right side may have shifted towards the left also. I'm going to have a glass company come out and reset the windshields, which is not the issue I'm concerned about.

According to the HWH manual, my jacks only work in pairs. If that is the case, then both front and rear jacks raised the left side together.
My question is...Why did my frame twist enough to pop the windshield? I thought that since both front and rear jacks raised the entire side together, I wouldn't have to worry about frame movement.

My other question is...What should I have done differently to avoid this?
I have now filled in the low side with crushed rock where the rear wheels sit, but I still need to know what I should do if that situation occurs in a campsite that is sloped to one side.

Thanks in advance for all replies.
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29 Replies

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  • Dale_Traveling's avatar
    Dale_Traveling
    Explorer II
    Apr 06, 2015
    I think the OP might need all four jacks down. Right side just kissing the ground lifting the coach maybe an inch and the left side leveling and pivoting the coach off the right jacks. Although I would suspect he is dumping the air bags I wondering if there's still a bit of bounce or twist on the right side tires and suspension without the hard points down jacks would provide.

    I haven't had a problem with my after market jacks and my entry level gas coach but I have always put down all four jacks when needed.
  • consumeratlarge's avatar
    consumeratlarge
    Explorer
    Apr 06, 2015
    I don't think you should be too hard on yourself. Sure seems like leveling jacks should level within their range of motion without breaking things.

    I seem to remember being advised to do the front and rear first, starting with whichever is lower, then doing the sides. The reason being to make contact with the ground before doing the sides, because having only one side contact the ground can start a twisting force on the frame and structure. Maybe the front and rear pairs to equalize to push down with the same force. Anybody know for sure?

    Sorry that happened, and it seems like if the jacks went in pairs, that they should start initially with an equalizer valve, so that they actually do push in pairs. As opposed to moving in pairs, but the first one that hits the ground continues lifting while the other one is not quite there.

    I don't see how the front or rear first would make any difference, though, just remember being told that.

    Did you get the windshield back in the frame ok?
  • happy-2's avatar
    happy-2
    Explorer
    Apr 06, 2015
    I went to Tractor Supply and bought a stall mat and cut 12in squares and allways put 2 pads under each leg as to not have to raise much off ground and keep rv solid.
  • J-Rooster's avatar
    J-Rooster
    Explorer
    Apr 06, 2015
    I agree with Scott's post! I'm not a RV expert or know it all but I wouldn't travel anywhere in the U.S.A. without wood blocking. I carry about about 12- 2 X 10 and 6- 6 X 6. I've alway's been able to keep my RV level and I've been in some terrible RV pads in my travels since 1976!
  • hotjag1's avatar
    hotjag1
    Explorer II
    Apr 06, 2015
    FIRE UP wrote:
    Hotjag1,
    Just wondering Sir. May I ask, what would be wrong with creating a couple of "ramps/blocks" that, would allow you to drive on them, on the left side, to "pre-level" the coach so that, your jacks would not have to work so hard in leveling the coach? I do that all the time when out in un-level camp sites. This way, the coaches NATURAL stance, is primarily achieved without over working the jacks and therefore, you may, eliminate torqueing the frame which, may have detrimental effects on the body and windshield. Just some thoughts here.
    Scott


    I did mention at the end of my post, that I had filled in the low spot where the rears wheels sit, so now the MH is level when parked without using the jacks. I thought the reason for having jacks was so there wasn't a need to have to mess with wooden blocks. As you suggested, I guess that is going to be necessary if the site is fairly off level, unless I am not leveling correctly.

    Since the coach was only low on the left side, I just put the left side jacks down. The right side jacks were not in contact with the ground. I'm wondering if that is what caused the problem.
  • FIRE_UP's avatar
    FIRE_UP
    Explorer
    Apr 06, 2015
    Hotjag1,
    Just wondering Sir. May I ask, what would be wrong with creating a couple of "ramps/blocks" that, would allow you to drive on them, on the left side, to "pre-level" the coach so that, your jacks would not have to work so hard in leveling the coach? I do that all the time when out in un-level camp sites. This way, the coaches NATURAL stance, is primarily achieved without over working the jacks and therefore, you may, eliminate torqueing the frame which, may have detrimental effects on the body and windshield. Just some thoughts here.
    Scott
  • Naio's avatar
    Naio
    Explorer II
    Apr 06, 2015
    Dang. The more I read this forum, the more things I never thought to worry about...

    Is this special to MHs, or could it be an issue for my van?
  • LVJ58's avatar
    LVJ58
    Explorer
    Apr 06, 2015
    Highly recommend you contact Tiffin and apprise them of your problem. Perhaps they may be able to provide you with a solution.


    Best of luck & safe travels.....

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