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TC_Z's avatar
TC_Z
Explorer
Oct 16, 2018

How to Remv Blisten and Install Koni ??

Thanks to all the guidance from RVers on RV.net I have ordered Koni FSD shocks to replace my 11 yr old Blistens and improve my ride confort.

Many thanks, but you didn't warn me about the difficulties of removing and installing. The rear shocks are the style that have a threaded bolt on each end surrounded with rubber bushings. I was able to remove the rear Blistens bottom nut using a pipe wrench to hold the cylinder, but how to you hold the shaft to remove the top nut? I soaked with Liquid Wrench a week ago but no luck. The shaft is hardened steel so laughs at vise grips or pipe wrench. Further, how will I install the new Koni's, how will I hold the shaft to tighten the new top nut and compress the rubber bushings? I don't want to risk damaging the new shaft. Further, how do I compress the new Koni to get them into position to install? Get the threaded bolt into each of their fittings? Wish there was a hex feature to hang on to on each end.

And please don't reply with "...take it to a dealer". That's not helpful. We are still making payments on our rig, plus paying for the Konis, I need to do all the repairs myself to stay afloat, thanks....

6 Replies

  • I agree with those who say cut it off. Heck I wouldn't have considered doing it any other way.
  • Found out from Koni that for the rear shocks that have inline bolts, that the bolts have a allen key hex in the end that you use to hold the shock from spinning when tightening the nut. This is on both ends.
  • The Koni shocks ARE NOT gas charged so they are easy to get in to place. As mentioned, I would use a SawZall or similar to cut off the old shocks. Maybe even a torch if you have one.
  • I'm serious, Sawzall. Just did mine. I used new 12x70mm bolts on the bottoms.
  • Flag down a Snap-On truck. They sell a special 3/8th socket specifically made for that odd shaped tip. Combine that socket with a small flex head ratchet and that will hold the tip still. Before you put that on, you need to put a flex head gear wrench over the hold down nut(the kind that moves like your wrist). That combination works for me.
  • If it's the kind of mount that has a threaded rod inline with the shock that fits into a hole in the chassis and is secured with nuts and washers and bushings and such, there is a hex nut-like section at the junction of the rod and the shock where you can put a wrench on and keep it from turning.

    If it's a cross-tube sort of mount, the bolt and nut are separate and run through the shock and mount and you should be able to hold or turn either end with a wrench.