inverter and engine alternator

Hi,

I'd try by passing this transfer switch, or checking to make sure it is working.

What make and model is the inverter?

Does the converter work when on the inverter power?

Many of the systems on an RV run on twelve volts--such as the water pump. Please read this web page to get a "handle" on those items:


http://rvroadtrip.us/library/12v_system.php

TobyRHudson wrote:
I should have added, there is a transfer switch mounted next to the inverter.

If the inverter is powering the entire 120v distribution panel I am at a loss as to why utility power runs everything fine but inverter power is selective.

Is it the Prosine 1800? or a MSW inverter? May not make a difference.

Some RVs have a subpanel to isolate certain items. All I can say is to follow the power and find the open circuit.

I should have added, there is a transfer switch mounted next to the inverter.

Don't know if this helps but, the inverter is hardwired into the 120V system so power always runs through it whether it's on or not. So when I'm running off shore power or generator I don't usually even turn it on. Only time I use it is when traveling so I have power to appliances, water pump and outlets. Now, when I travel and turn on the inverter, I have power to TV, water pump and most outlets. What has dropped of the grid, so to speak, are the fridge, microwave and a kitchen outlet by the microwave. Inverter shows to only be converting battery power where it used to show it was converting from a power source (like it would if I turned it on plugged into shore power or running the generator).

Hi tenbear,

I agree with SMK the charging circuit is a "side issue". Does the Xantrex 1800 watt have a built in transfer switch? We really need to know how the inverter is sending 120 volt power to the RV.

If you try to do 160 amps, the fuse will blow, to protect the wire. Find the fuse that protects the charging circuit. Carry a replacement fuse. Or, change to an auto reset circuit breaker.

I did add manual control switching to the solenoids for the alternator to house bank charging circuits. That way I can limit the load on the alternator to no more than 50 amps (biggest auto reset breakers I could find).

tenbear wrote:
I wonder what size wire is used between the solenoid (and alternator) and the house battery, mine uses #8, pretty small for 160A.

tenbear wrote:
I wonder what size wire is used between the solenoid (and alternator) and the house battery, mine uses #8, pretty small for 160A.

Probably OK as it's likely the alternator is not intended to supply all of the inverter amps for a MW. It should first supplies the chassis battery and running equipment and then recharge the house battery.

ie The house battery will be discharged using the MW and driving.

And one should be extremely careful using a MW while driving as hot sutff and movement aren't good combinations.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi tenbear,

No need for an inverter when the generator is running.

We need to know how the inverter is supplying power to the RV. If there is a transfer switch the contacts may already be burned.

You're right of course. I must have been tired last night.

I wonder what size wire is used between the solenoid (and alternator) and the house battery, mine uses #8, pretty small for 160A.

Hi tenbear,

No need for an inverter when the generator is running.

We need to know how the inverter is supplying power to the RV. If there is a transfer switch the contacts may already be burned.

The inverter works right when the generator is running. The converter is supplying 12v in that case. Without the generator the battery is called on to supply the current and cannot because it has been severely discharged by the high current drain. Still JMHO.

12v from the chassis alternator is a side issue.

You are looking for an open 120v circuit between the inverter (Xantrex 1800) and the microwave/fridge. A voltmeter or voltage detector can trace it out.