Leveling a Class C?

We have a 25 foot 22E. We've been pretty lucky for the most part, not to have had a problem with not having level sites. When we've needed to level, we use the yellow blocks, under both back wheels. I just assumed you needed them under both wheels. Has worked well.

I have Air Lift 5,000# air bags on the rear of my 24' Class C. I added them to deal with the extra tongue weight of my single axle cargo trailer . When loaded to 2,600# {which is about as heavy as I ever load it} the tongue weight drops the rear of the coach 1.5" {undoubtedly lightening up the front end... and not in a good way}".

Inflating the bags to 50 psi {they are rated for 100 max} brings the coach back up restoring the 1.5" drop and leaving the tongue of the trailer dead level at the manufacturers recommended ball height of 16". An unexpected side benefit of this system is that when not towing I keep 25 psi in the bags to keep them deployed as per the recommendation of Air Lift and my ride and handling, while always good, got noticeably better.

The heavy duty Bilstein shocks seem to work very well with the bags and while I never tried to add more than 50 psi I doubt this would raise the coach much if any.

:C

bobndot wrote:
Gjac, After explaining my need for adding a set of AB's to a truck shop they ordered a set and installed them. Different brands mount in different ways, your setup and clearance or aftermarket suspension add-ons will determine which brand of AB's will be avl to you.

They installed a set of AirLift bags on my 'C' thinking they would lift me a few inches more than level and they did not, I had them removed bc they did not offer any additional ride difference.

As it was explained to me by the mfg, an AB will lift a sagging rv back to level but will not lift an already loaded level RV too much higher.
I was trying to gain ground clearance for driveway aprons therefore I do not think a set of AB's will work for leveling. My set was only 1/2" of extra height...maybe ! You are not going to feel any difference or will a 1/2" difference affect your fridge, especially side to side leveling. Front to rear leveling is more important for the fridge to operate bc the fins run in that direction and are prone to clog. In my case, the AB's were not worth it.

Your explanation makes sense Bob, I had Air Lift bags inside my front coil springs on my Class A and the ride height got lower and lower with time as the front coil springs sagged even though the air bags were inflated to the max PSI. After new HD coils ride height was restored without the bags.

Gjac, After explaining my need for adding a set of AB's to a truck shop they ordered a set and installed them. Different brands mount in different ways, your setup and clearance or aftermarket suspension add-ons will determine which brand of AB's will be avl to you.

They installed a set of AirLift bags on my 'C' thinking they would lift me a few inches more than level and they did not, I had them removed bc they did not offer any additional ride difference.

As it was explained to me by the mfg, an AB will lift a sagging rv back to level but will not lift an already loaded level RV too much higher.
I was trying to gain ground clearance for driveway aprons therefore I do not think a set of AB's will work for leveling. My set was only 1/2" of extra height...maybe ! You are not going to feel any difference or will a 1/2" difference affect your fridge, especially side to side leveling. Front to rear leveling is more important for the fridge to operate bc the fins run in that direction and are prone to clog. In my case, the AB's were not worth it.

pnichols wrote:
Yeah .... I can see your point!

However, whenever I've so far noticed leveling jacks on a motorhome that are retracted for travel, they are hanging down so far so as to make it real tricky to get to a camping spot like we were at in the photo without damaging the jacks and/or the frame area where they're attached. :E

Yeah I can see the low hanging jack would be an issue. What about adding air bags at the 4 corners, I hear some with class A's report a 4-5 in lift. Wouldn't those be a lower cost solution? From what most on here posted 2-4ins usually will provide enough height to level the MH in most camping areas.

Sounds good... You da man!

:C

Desert Captain wrote:
Phil,

I have to agree that your last photo does not show a good situation. It looks like the weight of your front axle is not properly supported. Methinks that center of the wheel {axle} should be centered on the ramp, no? :h

A slight clarification is in order, for what it's worth: That photo of the step block under a right front tire is of OUR FRIEND'S previous Class C. I would never do that ... as I carry along plenty of wood planks, step leveling blocks, a shovel, and a 12-ton long-throw hydraulic jack so as to be able to level up our Class C a bit more correctly/substantially whenever needed (no desert rocks required by us for extra lift)! ;)

Phil,

I have to agree that your last photo does not show a good situation. It looks like the weight of your front axle is not properly supported. Methinks that center of the wheel {axle} should be centered on the ramp, no? :h

Yeah .... I can see your point!

However, whenever I've so far noticed leveling jacks on a motorhome that are retracted for travel, they are hanging down so far so as to make it real tricky to get to a camping spot like we were at in the photo without damaging the jacks and/or the frame area where they're attached. :E

pnichols wrote:
Here's us with our camping friends way out there in Utah (that's our Class C on the right) in a boondock camping spot where plenty of leveling blocks came in handy for both of us.


Here's what our camping friends had to do on their right front tire - the highest step of the step block was not enough!

Phil your last photo makes me think spending the extra money for leveling jacks may be worth the money.