I made an offer on a used Class C last night and it was accepted. Now the RV has to undergo the inspection process. As I wait for that I have been reading a lot here about leveling the class C. I can't afford to add HWH or other power levelers at this time but hopefully I can in the near future. I have read about using the Lynx type stackers as that seems to be the fall back method. This will be our 3rd RV but the previous 2 were TTs so the process is somewhat different. On the TT I used plastic ramps that raised one side or the other as the TT went up the ramp. Is there a reason why these are not used on class Cs? Most of the places we camp at are fairly level and only need minor leveling to get it even. I know I would need at least 4 due to the rear duals.

Might want to get a set of these to use for front tires so you can level front to rear also

We have been RVing for some 40 years and have never found the need for anything more then 2x4 pieces under the wheels. If circumstances require more then that we just move on to another spot.

Hi. The ramps can be used on Class Cs, and I have used mine once. I also carry the Lynx blocks and use them mostly. I guess what you use will depend on the spot where you are camping. I used the ramps when I knew I had to bring up the front end a little and the same amount on each side. That is not often the case for me. I've been in spots where I needed to block up 3 wheels to get level. So for us, the spot dictates what I will use. Some RVers will use lumber to block. Remember that both wheels of the duals on one side need to be blocked up, and always remember that there must always be one wheel solidly on the ground for safety. Good luck and happy travels in your new to you unit. Bob

Just be sure to block/raise both tires on your rear dual axle. I have a set of the Lynx and Camcos. I've found the Camcos (solid yellow blocks) to hold up better than the Lynx.Also, if you mount some levels inside cab, you can often slowly easy around the site and get pretty darn close.

I see no reason not to use ramps. I use to ones that Old Biscuit mentioned. I like them better than the Lynx type, much easier to use just plop them down, no building and guessing how many to use.I carry 4 and as so far have not had to use them all at one time.I try to move around in the spot to get as level as I can then use these to get it right.

Leveling the Class C | Good Sam Community

27 Replies

JNorton
Explorer
Sep 14, 2014
Horse mat leveling
http://www.rv-boondocking-the-good-life.com/rvlevelingblocks.html
DaHose
Explorer
Sep 14, 2014
Just realized I left out a detail. The horse mat is 3/4" thick, so you need to stack them to get a lot of height. Since the Lynx blocks are 10" wide, I used that measurement when thinking about stacking. If everything is aligned to the front, you can safely stack up to a 4.5" total rise. If you need more than that, then you should find a better spot. I will try to make a simple graphic showing how I use the mats.

= (stacked 10 " pieces)
== == (stacked 16" pieces end-to-end)
= == == (stacked 10" pieces, stacked 16" pieces end-to-end)

The arrangement above makes for a very easy drive onto the staggered pads. Although I have stacked 3 high and just muscled on.

Jose
JNorton
Explorer
Sep 14, 2014
DaHose wrote:
From another forum I learned about using a horse stall mat. I bought one that was 4' X 8' and cut it up into strips 12" wide and 16" long. I stack the pieces in different combos as necessary. They are solid rubber (a bit heavy), I really like using them and the whole mat was $50. They won't break, they offer great traction and they will last pretty much forever.

Jose
Another user of cut up horse stall mat. Bullet proof.
OldRadios
Explorer
Sep 14, 2014
I'm cheap. I carry five 2"x8"x16" pieces of wood. I cut one edge of each on a 45 degree angle. Cheap, work fine, and one at 16 inches supports both wheels. No need to spend money on a bunch of plastic blocks that will crack or $20 each for rubber ones. Seldom use over three at a time. If one finally cracks they are cheap to replace and burn nice in your campfire. You can make six out of one 8 foot board. If you don't have a way to cut one most big box stores will cut a board into 16" sections for you for 25 cents a cut.
DaHose
Explorer
Sep 14, 2014
From another forum I learned about using a horse stall mat. I bought one that was 4' X 8' and cut it up into strips 12" wide and 16" long. I stack the pieces in different combos as necessary. They are solid rubber (a bit heavy), I really like using them and the whole mat was $50. They won't break, they offer great traction and they will last pretty much forever.

Jose
tatest
Explorer II
Sep 12, 2014
I do most of my leveling moving around on the parking site with a circular bubble level on the console. Next stage is pieces of 3/4 inch plywood for fine tuning on longer stays (street side needs to be 3/4 inch high on a level spot to compensate for weight of slideouts). I have two packages of Lynx levelers, rarely used.

I don't think a C needs leveling jacks, though many would not be without them on larger rigs. Very seldom have I been where I really needed to build up blocks or ramps to get level, and in most of those spaces, the range of travel of jacks would not have been sufficient without also putting blocks under the jacks.

I most often use my blocks to build a ramp to raise the front end so that I have more room to work when doing a chassis inspection or oil change in my driveway.
hotbyte
Explorer
Sep 11, 2014
rockhillmanor wrote:
I stayed one winter down south in Florida at a friends house with my MH.
My parking spot by the shore station dipped really way down in the front of my MH.

After breaking a complete set of Lynx levelers in the sand trying to get the front end up, I went out to a local car parts store and bought a set of these.

Rhino Ramps

Unbelievable how easy it is to pull up on these ramps with a MH when you find yourself in a situation where you need a high lift to level!

I have set of those for working on cars in driveway. There is no way I have storage space to carry them around in our MH. Somewhere like your friends house and leave them there...yes, they would work great.
EMD360
Explorer
Sep 11, 2014
Wishin' and Hopin' wrote:
Has anyone tried the Anderson leveler? Seems like the tire is fully supported at every height increment. I'd need 3 - a pair for the rear wheels and one for the front if that also needed a lift.

Category: Learn something new every day!
Anderson Levelers

Reviews are mostly great--small, easy to carry. 30,000 lb weight limit. Might try these as I do think leveling is one of the biggest pains. We have levels outside and run around the RV trying to get them leveled. Also try the door trick. Open the bathroom door and if it stays open you are close to level. Notice they are using a regular 24" level by hand in the video.

How they work: Anderson Website
rockhillmanor
Explorer II
Sep 11, 2014
I stayed one winter down south in Florida at a friends house with my MH.
My parking spot by the shore station dipped really way down in the front of my MH.

After breaking a complete set of Lynx levelers in the sand trying to get the front end up, I went out to a local car parts store and bought a set of these.

Rhino Ramps

Unbelievable how easy it is to pull up on these ramps with a MH when you find yourself in a situation where you need a high lift to level!
tenbear
Explorer
Sep 11, 2014
No one has mentioned how you tell when you are level.

I use Hoppy levels placed where I can see them from the drivers seat. I find the most level spot then the levels tell me how much I have to raise each corner. Usually get it right on the first try.