Leveling a MH v/s 5er

cKarlGo wrote:
As things stand, if this system cannot level the coach on my driveway, then it's not going to be useful at many campgrounds, IMO.

Well, one thing you can do at a campground in the case of an extremely unlevel site, that you can't do on your paved (or concrete)driveway: Get you a shovel, and dig out a small trench for the wheels to sit in on the side thats too high.

Also, whether its campsite or a paved driveway, a handful of wood blocks cut in to 10 or 12" pieces, or a set of plastic leveling blocks you drive the wheels up on can go a long way to help level things out, too.

It is true that towable RVs (5er or TT) have a big advantage in how far they can be raised/lowered front to back to get level. However, I will say that we've been camping at numerous places with our MH over the last few years, many of which were at state parks where sites were very unlevel. Between the various wood and plastic blocks I carry, and a shovel for digging a trench when needed......I've yet to ever find a site or slope too steep that I couldn't level the MH successfully.

JMO, and not referring to anyone necessarily in this thread, but having come from owning a TT for many years and now a MH...It seems like many folks get very lazy when they go from a towable RV to a MH, when it comes to leveling. Its as if using leveling blocks becomes a disgrace, and they refuse to use them unless absolutely forced to.

I'd MUCH rather get out the leveling blocks and drive one side of the MH up on them, rather than lift tires completely off the ground. Leveling jacks on a MH are indeed designed to lift the entire corner/side, and they will do that. However, as already said, this can put a lot of lateral stress on the jacks, and even if it doesn't hurt them, it will make things less stable (more shaky) inside. I've found that the more blocks I use under the jacks and tires, the more solid and stable it will feel inside the RV.