Levelling the RV

Whatever works best at your disposal. I have the yellow Lego blocks but often prefer just to shovel a few inches of sandy soil topped with a inch thick layer of leaves, works great, is all natural and cheap too. For bumpy rocky boondocking parks the sand method may not be too practical and the Legos may not set right. I've found some nice flat stones and even well shape split logs do the trick as well. Also if leveling with Legos on a dirt or grassy surface, padding them with leaves at the base does wonders when it's time to pack up. Otherwise those things get impacted with dirt and grass. The leaves bang out real easy. A cheap stablizer in the rear does well with stopping the shaking jerky motion, especially when doing the wildthang in the back.

I use 2 x 8s with 45 degree angled ends and in 3 lengths so I can stack them 3 high if necessary. Usually only need 1 or 2 high though.

I use blocks. Not very often, because most sites I've used have been level enough, and where somewhat uneven, I can usually move around to get the RV level.

I have some blocks I've cut from one-inch weather resistant plywood (a stack of at least 6" worth) and two sets of interlocking plastic blocks I can use to build ramps for more difficult situations. Usually I use nothing, or a single plywood block under one wheel.

IAMICHABOD watch that foot print on those blocks as seems a little short & u dont want to sit on 1/2 a tire as not good for belts

We use Lynx Levelers (the lego type blocks) that we used with our trailer. Nice and light and easy to transport. For at home we've made a set of three step ramps out of 2 x 6's since we know that slope will never change ;) But the ramps are really heavy and I don't know that I'd want to wrestle with them when we're out and about.

I use 2X6X14 pressure treated boards in conjunction with Levler Blocks. I have found that the Weight of the Class C often pushes the blocks into the ground, do I use the boards and stack the Levler Blocks ontop of the boards if needed.
I have a rear portable stabalizer I purchased at Campers World which I put under a rear horizontal frame which my Reese hitch is attached to. This is under the rear bed and eliminates the rocking behind the rear axle. I don't notice much rocking or movements in the middle of the coach in between the axles.

DrewE wrote:

chrisandoctavia wrote:
OK - forgive the ignorance of a newbie here...

What exactly are "2x6's"?

Chris

Ask for them at a lumberyard; it's a standard size of framing lumber. I personally prefer 2x8's, cut to appropriate lengths, with nice slopey ends to make it easier to drive up on them. 2x6's require rather more precision in positioning them so the tires don't lop over the edge.

For long-term use, pressure treated wood is well worth considering.

If you go buy a 2X6 at Home Depot, they'll cut it into shorter lengths for you to use under your wheels.

Bill

If you have the resources the Andersen Levelers are perhaps the easiest and the best. If you need to go higher the Andersen Rapid Jack and Tuff Chock will do the trick.

A 2x6 is a piece of lumber that's 1 1/2" by 5 1/2" in size. :) It's pronounced "Two By Six", just like the wood in your walls is called a "2 by 4" (2x4).

The previous owner of our RV, bought Lynx Levelers - which I take it are called "Lego Blocks" by others. I like 'em. Easy to use, easy to store. I may buy a second set.

Thanks for all your valued replies

Chris