First "Dim" and "Bright" are misleading.. Back in the 50's with what is called a "Single light" system (one sealed beam lamp on each side) the "Dim" was 56 watts and the Bright 36.. yup, got that backward.. That is why they went to HIGH and LOW beams.
Today they tend to be all the same wattage.. But we need to know
Is it truly DIM? (I had that problem) or is it high and low reversed?
If it is high and low reversed I suspect you can figure out the cure Switch the wires) note: do a very good job of cutting and splicing, use MARINE grade heat shrink to seal the connection and solder please, at least 6 inches from the socket.
If it is DIM... and a single lamp system. Well, as I said I had that problem. Finally fixed it
My car has a "Single" system. on this type of system the the lamp has 3 terminals, HIGH/LOW and Common.. on mine the COMMON was bent, so it did not go in the socket,, Solution was to bend it back so it went into the socket.
Now if you have a "Dual" headlight system (one on either side) then either one is HIGH and the other LOW, or.... One his HIGH/LOW and the other HIGH only.
On this a bad ground will make a big difference.
Finally. how to tell if it is HIGH/LOW swap
You need a foggy day, OR a reflective wall or store front at night.
The beams are clearly visible in the fog or the Bright spot on the wall (high or low) it will be obvious if lead swap is the issue.