Looking for Class C advice

TNGW1500SE wrote:
pnichols wrote:

.....However, bear in mind that you do compromise on other issues with a long wheelbase Class C.


Like what?

Compromises, in addition to the turning radius increasing:

- More weight on the front axle -> maybe putting it near maximum after the owner loads the RV for trips ... or worse yet, over maximum after the owner loads the RV for trips.

- More chances of high centering and hence damaging some structure under the RV when going over humped entrances to parking lots/driveways, or when maybe going off-pavement to drycamp in certain places.

TNGW1500SE wrote:

pnichols wrote:
.....However, bear in mind that you do compromise on other issues with a long wheelbase Class C.

Like what?

Turning radius would be a big one for me.

pnichols wrote:
.....However, bear in mind that you do compromise on other issues with a long wheelbase Class C.

Like what?

You can raise a Class C by putting the next size up tires on it. We did that to gain more ground clearance everywhere on our Class C.

IMHO, the best way to increase the rear end ground clearance is to add rear air bags with the compressor control for them right on the dash .... just flip the switch to add a few more pounds pressure in the air bags to raise the rear end a bit. Then lower the air pressure after getting onto or out of your driveway to bring the Class C back to level.

To directly address your posted question: Research Class C motorhomes of the length that you might want .... then buy the model with the longest wheelbase for that length. That one will have the least rear overhang - i.e. the shortest distance from the rear bumper to the rear axle. Then AFTER you get that Class C, you can do things like increase the tire size and/or add air bags for even more clearance.

However, bear in mind that you do compromise on other issues with a long wheelbase Class C.

Bordercollie wrote:
You might have airbags installed in the rear and raise the rear when pulling in or backing out, high enough to clear. An on-board compressor would be most convenient so that you don't have to get out and connect an air supply to inflate/deflate bags.

I

I thought about that. Once you get past the entrance to the driveway the rest isn't really that bad. The guy in the propane truck doesn't have a problem. The driveways about 850 feet long and you gain about 200 in elevation. Once you get up to the top you have a bunch of room to turn around.

You might have airbags installed in the rear and raise the rear when pulling in or backing out, high enough to clear. An on-board compressor would be most convenient so that you don't have to get out and connect an air supply to inflate/deflate bags.

DrewE wrote:
It's not so much the steepness in itself but the transitions between angles that cause problems, of course.

And from the picture posted, it doesn't LOOK like the transition is really that abrupt. Assuming that the traffic on the main road is not very heavy, a quick test could be done. A helper or two would be required.

I think I might be more concerned about pulling the hill and turning around at the top.

It's not so much the steepness in itself but the transitions between angles that cause problems, of course.

Class C's do vary some in departure angles, and it may not necessarily be the shortest wheelbase or shortest distance from the axle to the back that has the best departure angle. However, probably a class B would be the best (or at least the least poor) in this regard.

Well heck then google 4X4 RV's there's plenty for sale and will make up your angled driveway and then some !

AJR wrote:
Do you know the angle you are dealing with? Can you change the angle of attack?

I have a steep driveway but all of my TTs and MHs have made it down at an angle.

Not sure of the angle but here's a google image
http://postimg.org/image/5xidf68l7/