Forum Discussion
1,941 Replies
- Papa_MelExplorerI want to replace the home theater system in my 2004 37C. I found a Sony Bravia HDX-275 that will work, but it has DAV connectors. Can I splice to the existing speaker wires or just look for another system that has regular speaker wire connections. If I splice, will it affect the quality of sound enough to be a bother, or because it's a motor home, don't worry about it. Maybe a suggestion for a different system that works.
Please advise,
Mel - Paul_TurpinExplorerPower Gear Jacks- FYI and preventative maintenance
I had my jacks down and when I tried to retract the jacks, nothing happen. All the lights on the control pad looked normal but the jacks would not go up. I was not in a very good mood knowing that I would have to get under the rig and release the fluid from the pump manifold to get the jacks up(what a mess). Before I did that I checked all of the wires and connectors from dash board to the jacks.
I got under the rig and checked all of the ground wires and the wires to the manifold, there are four sets on my pump. The four connecters look like the flat trailer light type connecters with two wires. When I found one of the connectors was so corroded that I had to pry it apart with vice grips and a screw driver I knew I found the problem. After cleaning all of the connecters, I put some Di-Electric Grease on the connectors to prevent the corrosion. The jacks work fine now. - ParrotguyExplorerRe: Skylight covers
I just bought two skylight covers (only) from Camping World in San Marcos CA which bought out the old Beaudry RV dealership, and carries some Fleetwood parts in stock, and had two of these on hand.
The Fleetwood part number is as noted above #405528 and cost $18.72 each, less the 10% Camping World discount for a total of $33.70 for two!!!
I was shocked at the low price. They told me they sell a lot of them and keep them in stock. He also said they are made of a different plastic than they were "last year" but I wonder how he would know that.
These covers are 14 X 22"(dome) and about 19 X 26" including the flange.
Are these covers held down with wood screws? What material is beneath the plastic covering material that I presume holds the screws? Any tips on installing them?
Thanks, Gary in Poway, CA
2005 Pace 36D - Meme_RayExplorerWe just came back from a short weekend trip and moved the baffle from the bottom vent to the top vent and our refrigerator stayed on gas for the 1.5 hour duration of the drive. Hopefully this is a trend. Thanks for your help.
Meme
Paul Turpin wrote:
Meme&Ray wrote:
Paul Turpin wrote:
Meme,
Thanks, I got the same thing from Dometic a few week ago but I didn't know it was called a baffle kit. Like you, I have not put it on yet but looks simple. What my refrigerator was doing is when I am driving down the Interstate 55+ and the wind was blowing in just the right direction on the side, the wind would go down the flew and blow out the flame. It would relight then get blown out over and over until the check light comes on. I am going to start puting the wind block on the the top refrigerator side vent to see if that stops the wind.
Paul & Sue:
I am hoping you see this message and can let me know if you did install the baffle kit on your P/A and whether you ended up with it installed on the top or bottom vents and if it worked for you? We are still having the problem but we installed the kit on the bottom vents with really no success. Hope to hear from you.
Meme
Hi all, I have been away from the WiFi. I put the baffle kit on the top vents. The wind was going into the top of the baffle then down the tube blowing out the flame. Unknown if this helped or not because I was wondering around a RV parts warehouse and found a L shape shield that cliped over the top of the baffle tube that let the fumes/heat out and blocked the wind from blowing in. It was used part setting on a old RV refrigerator on the ground. I only use it when I travel and I take it off when I stop for awhile. - Paul_TurpinExplorer
saber wrote:
Nope. Here is the info from the invoice. Quantity: 2; Part Number: FW/405528; Desc: Skylight, Dome Ext 14 x 22 Wht; Price: 29.35; Disc: 10%; Amount: 52.65. Shipping for the order, which included some other parts, was 0.00. There was, of course, sales tax.
Good old Fleetwood, I think the different prices is because Fleetwood uses different sizes. On our 2004 37C is 18x36 in the kitchen and 18x24 in the bath. - Paul_TurpinExplorer
Meme&Ray wrote:
Paul Turpin wrote:
Meme,
Thanks, I got the same thing from Dometic a few week ago but I didn't know it was called a baffle kit. Like you, I have not put it on yet but looks simple. What my refrigerator was doing is when I am driving down the Interstate 55+ and the wind was blowing in just the right direction on the side, the wind would go down the flew and blow out the flame. It would relight then get blown out over and over until the check light comes on. I am going to start puting the wind block on the the top refrigerator side vent to see if that stops the wind.
Paul & Sue:
I am hoping you see this message and can let me know if you did install the baffle kit on your P/A and whether you ended up with it installed on the top or bottom vents and if it worked for you? We are still having the problem but we installed the kit on the bottom vents with really no success. Hope to hear from you.
Meme
Hi all, I have been away from the WiFi. I put the baffle kit on the top vents. The wind was going into the top of the baffle then down the tube blowing out the flame. Unknown if this helped or not because I was wondering around a RV parts warehouse and found a L shape shield that cliped over the top of the baffle tube that let the fumes/heat out and blocked the wind from blowing in. It was used part setting on a old RV refrigerator on the ground. I only use it when I travel and I take it off when I stop for awhile. - bricotExplorerI replaced the inner and outer skylight towards the end of last year, the edges that meet the roof were curling up badly, through the caulking and causing it to leak, have had it in twice since then to add more caulking. Seem like it was in the $100 range.
- want-a-beExplorerThis must be one of the longest threads on record in 18 more days it will be 4 years since the first thread was posted!!!!!
- Meme_RayExplorer
Paul Turpin wrote:
Meme,
Thanks, I got the same thing from Dometic a few week ago but I didn't know it was called a baffle kit. Like you, I have not put it on yet but looks simple. What my refrigerator was doing is when I am driving down the Interstate 55+ and the wind was blowing in just the right direction on the side, the wind would go down the flew and blow out the flame. It would relight then get blown out over and over until the check light comes on. I am going to start puting the wind block on the the top refrigerator side vent to see if that stops the wind.
Paul & Sue:
I am hoping you see this message and can let me know if you did install the baffle kit on your P/A and whether you ended up with it installed on the top or bottom vents and if it worked for you? We are still having the problem but we installed the kit on the bottom vents with really no success. Hope to hear from you.
Meme - Meme_RayExplorerStill having refrigerator problems
We are in our 5th season and are still having refrigerator problems. Our dometic side by side runs great when we are standing still on either gas or electric but we just can't keep the thing running on gas while we are traveling down the road.
Any ideas out there? Has anyone else had this problem? We have had ignitors replaced and cleaned. We have also installed a baffle kit supplied to us by dometic that is supposed to block air flow from the outside vent compartment from blowing out the gas flame. All to no avail, year after year we have the same problem.
HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!!
Meme
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