looking for owners of 2004-2005 Pace Arrows

You did not say if it is part of the refrigerator or not and which make of refrigerator you are talking about.

That said, on my Dometic it was necessary to remove the fridge to gain access to the top fitting where the water enters the icemaker. The icemaker itself did not have to be removed. In my case the fridge is not in a slideout but the top end was not otherwise accessible. YMMV.

Has anyone replaced the water line to the ice maker on a 2004, Pace Arrow, 37C? Mine disintegrated. Does it require removing the ice maker? Any information would be appreciated.

Mel

Lobstah wrote:
Thanks to all for the numerous replies. Many of you have different floor plans, and so the info definitely does not apply, however...that being said, here's Part 2 of the saga, and how things developed once we got to our campsite.

I plugged into 30A power, and had the same symptoms I had at home on my 15A circuit from the garage. In the process of getting set up, my wife decided to vaccuum the living area, and plugged the vaccuum into the outlet along the kitchen counter...dead. No power at all. Microwave is working, hot water is working, but no power to that outlet. So I move to the plug under the dinette, presto, power. Then one of our friends wanted to vaccuum their tent, to we gave them the vaccuum, and I told them to use the plug in my belly-box...dead. So NOW it occurs to me that the outlets that don't work must be on a GFI breaker, but I have no GFI breakers on my breaker panel. This means that the GFI is on an outlet somewhere, and it's always either in the kitche or in the bathroom. Turned out to be in the bathroom, behind a towel hanging on a towel ring. As soon as I pushed the reset, everything worked, including the inverter/charger and the frige.

SO...

The problem was the forklift running over the extension cord in my driveway, which not only popped the GFI breaker in the garage, but ALSO popped the GFI breaker out in the coach. And even though the frige had 30A of AC power, it still needs DC voltage from the batteries in order to work.

Also, as for location, the converter/charger location is down to 2 places. One is in the passenger's belly-box, right above the propane tank, the other is in the panel under the glass cabinet. I haven't looked there yet, but will open things up this coming week.

The box that someone mentioned being under the bottom large drawer in the kitchen is actually one of the two furnaces on a 36D.

Thanks to everyone for the help and encouragement!...and go find your GFI...you never know when you're going to need to reset it ;)

Jim

My next guess would have been a blown Flux Capacitor !

Glad you got it figured out.

Yeah...after having ALL the information, it was obvious. I just couldn't figure out why my TV would work, but my fridge and batt charger wouldn't.

Jim

Glad it was your GFI .. easy fix. That's usually the 1st place we look if a plug-in is not working.
I know we all have different floorplans but at least you had options. :)

Thanks to all for the numerous replies. Many of you have different floor plans, and so the info definitely does not apply, however...that being said, here's Part 2 of the saga, and how things developed once we got to our campsite.

I plugged into 30A power, and had the same symptoms I had at home on my 15A circuit from the garage. In the process of getting set up, my wife decided to vaccuum the living area, and plugged the vaccuum into the outlet along the kitchen counter...dead. No power at all. Microwave is working, hot water is working, but no power to that outlet. So I move to the plug under the dinette, presto, power. Then one of our friends wanted to vaccuum their tent, to we gave them the vaccuum, and I told them to use the plug in my belly-box...dead. So NOW it occurs to me that the outlets that don't work must be on a GFI breaker, but I have no GFI breakers on my breaker panel. This means that the GFI is on an outlet somewhere, and it's always either in the kitche or in the bathroom. Turned out to be in the bathroom, behind a towel hanging on a towel ring. As soon as I pushed the reset, everything worked, including the inverter/charger and the frige.

SO...

The problem was the forklift running over the extension cord in my driveway, which not only popped the GFI breaker in the garage, but ALSO popped the GFI breaker out in the coach. And even though the frige had 30A of AC power, it still needs DC voltage from the batteries in order to work.

Also, as for location, the converter/charger location is down to 2 places. One is in the passenger's belly-box, right above the propane tank, the other is in the panel under the glass cabinet. I haven't looked there yet, but will open things up this coming week.

The box that someone mentioned being under the bottom large drawer in the kitchen is actually one of the two furnaces on a 36D.

Thanks to everyone for the help and encouragement!...and go find your GFI...you never know when you're going to need to reset it ;)

Jim

shootinnewton wrote:
I have a 2004 Pace Arrow, 36B, and the converter is under the bottom shelf below the sink in the bedroom, ours went out in Wyoming and I had to call Fleetwood to locate it.

I have a PaceArrow 37c. My fuse box is under the bathroom sink but the converter box is located under a piece of plywood under the compartment for the washer/dryer.

Had a hard time finding it but it was under there hidden (and burned out)

We have a 2006 36D, I think that it is under the bottom large drawer in the kitchen, just pull out the drawer.

Good luck!

I have a 2004 Pace Arrow, 36B, and the converter is under the bottom shelf below the sink in the bedroom, ours went out in Wyoming and I had to call Fleetwood to locate it.

Re: generator
My generator would run but no 110 power to the coach. I exhausted everything I could try so took it to Camping World. When you look in the generator compartment there is an unpainted electrical junction box to the upper left. I didn't look in there because you need a very very short screwdriver to remove the cover. The connections inside that box had vibrated loose causing resistance and the wires burned themselves out. Simple fix but $175 - which I could have done myself. I also learned that if the generator runs then it is producing AC, because there is a switch that shuts the motor down if it not producing AC.