Looking to Purchase First Class A, NADA price confusion

Both NADA an KBB have a ludicrous list of "extras" that can be added to the price. When we were shopping, I saw things like a kitchen and its appliances, holding tanks, potable water tanks, propane cylinders all listed as extras and adding to the supposed "sticker".

We ended up buying a used 8-year-old rig from the original, very fastidious owners for a price that was well below (maybe $9K) the silly numbers in KBB. It end, it turned out they'd had so much enjoyment out of the motor-home in 8 years, they were prepared to sell for what was left on the home equity loan they'd originally used to finance it.

They were satisfied, we were happy and we got a good quality RV for a reasonable price (about $8K below the "silly" numbers and about $3.5K what similar rigs were going for at local dealers.

We found the rig in our local paper. The sellers were about 30 miles away.

BTW, we also used a home equity loan, like the sellers had, to finance the deal. Our Credit Union was very accommodating and we got enough to cover the sales tax (almost $3500) and a new set of tires ($2300) and a bit left over for our first couple of trips. They didn't even ask what we were buying with the money! No arguments about NADA or KBB numbers, as we had about $150,000 equity in the house at the time.

ferndaleflyer wrote:
Having owned a car lot at one time I'll explain the NADA book......The orange one is for the public and the banks mainly. Dealers have "Black book" which is based on the real world pricing from auctions, selected dealer sales, etc. It is also regional. That gold book is over the top high on everything and is mainly used by banks and insurance companies to establish loan values and damage claim prices. And someone above is right the guy at the bank may have never seen the inside of an RV. I know my neighbor looked at one at a dealer and said he was going to look at an identical one the next day and before he got home they left a message cutting the price 25%.....Them boys get tired of paying those floor plan fees while the units sit. Also CASH TALKS!

The NADA BOOK is published by the National Automobile Dealers Association. The Black Book is an entirely different organization based in Atlanta Georgia. It is very accurate as it is based on weekly aution results throughout the U.S. They don't though do RV values.

The Kelly Blue Book is published in California and does do RV values as does NADA. There are a variety of less recognized value guides published that do cars and RV values.

In all reality, most all of the value guides are now internet based and dealers buy subscriptions. There are even instantly up to date smart phone apps where they can be accessed from anywhere.

Again thanks all for their input it is much appreciated.

bsinmich wrote:
Some of the other things to look at in the bargaining process are overall condition, tire age, etc. A set of tires can easily be $3000. On MHs tread left on the tire means nothing. The tire age is stamped in every tire when it is built and anything over 5 years is very questionable. The number and age of batteries can also add up.

Excellent point. The tires on the Holiday Rambler we are going with are one year old based off the code. There are 4 house batteries so that is going to suck when they need to be replaced...

Having owned a car lot at one time I'll explain the NADA book......The orange one is for the public and the banks mainly. Dealers have "Black book" which is based on the real world pricing from auctions, selected dealer sales, etc. It is also regional. That gold book is over the top high on everything and is mainly used by banks and insurance companies to establish loan values and damage claim prices. And someone above is right the guy at the bank may have never seen the inside of an RV. I know my neighbor looked at one at a dealer and said he was going to look at an identical one the next day and before he got home they left a message cutting the price 25%.....Them boys get tired of paying those floor plan fees while the units sit. Also CASH TALKS!

Some of the other things to look at in the bargaining process are overall condition, tire age, etc. A set of tires can easily be $3000. On MHs tread left on the tire means nothing. The tire age is stamped in every tire when it is built and anything over 5 years is very questionable. The number and age of batteries can also add up.

I just sold my Travel Supreme over the weekend and I had three offers at high retail NADA with accurate extras added, plus 10% for excellent condition. It was in mint condition always stored inside with all the right upgrades. Yes, I had low book offers, but low book would not buy my MH. I also had several "real" buyers and sold it to the one with cash.

I was also the lowest price Travel Supreme on RVTrader, but I priced it to sell it, not attract people to look at several on a lot. You are correct some dealers are asking $20,000 more than what mine was priced at.

Hi, I believe the on line nada book is a good guide to use and only a guide. I think the dealers get monthly books so there is a difference from on line to what the dealer has but not that much. And dont add extras just the factory standard equiptment. paul

Simple they what you to pay for their best product and the internet product is free and less robust. I always go to the bank or credit union to look at their copy. They use to leave them pout on the counter for all to look at but people starting stealing them so no I have to ask to see them. Trust this helps!!

Biggyniner wrote:

wallynm wrote:
Internet NADA is different than the paper back NADA that you have to buy.

Can you explain this further? How is NADA even useful if that is the case?

Popsie wrote:
Talk to your bank/credit union. Give them the info on the RVs you are looking at and ask them how much they would loan on the specific models, and ask how much they would expect you to bring to the table. Add the two together, and you get a real world price point.

X2. the bank or credit union have the NADA book that you can not get online. Go ask at the bank for all the listed prices for the coach you are looking at.