Looking to upgrade suspension and add a steering stabilizer

Thank you for all the comments!

If the links are too short, you can buy a set of adjustable links. Here's a listing on Amazon for them:
https://www.amazon.com/Hellwig-7962-11-14-Adjustable-Endlinks/dp/B001UFRWBO/


I bought a set but didn't need them. By the time I got the swaybar level, I had the adjustable links the same length as the originals.

I too did the CHF and it made a big difference. Just make sure you check your clearance with the leaf springs In front and the the bell housing for the rear diff. Mine cleared fine on our 2010 HR but not well on my father-in-laws 2006 Sea Breeze. When he lifted his wheels of the ground (with jacks) the sway bars touched the springs in front. The rear bar pivoted closer to the bell housing than he felt comfortable.
We just came back from a 3 week 5,000 mile vacation and all performed very well. I do recommend the CHF but just be sure you do not have a clearance issue.

Here are things I did in this order on my 2011 F53 chassis. First installed Saf-T Steer stabilizer which stopped the constant corrections on the steering wheel to keep her in the lane. Second the CHF on the rear stabilizer bar. Big improvement on eliminating the body roll (for example when a semi passes). Finally, a front end alignment which addressed almost completely any undesirable effects during driving. No Trac Bars, no airbags, no Sumo Springs, no Koni shocks. Just the above.

That's it, and the F53 now handles like a dream.

Somebody explain to me why everyone is eager to spend a lot of money on upgrades before letting the OP try the F53 cheap handling fix (CHF)? If you don't have a Ford V-10 chassis you really shouldn't be offering a solution for SOB (some other brand). Moving the swaybar links and replacing the bushing results in a world of difference in handling.

What works great on a diesel pusher doesn't have any connection to the F-53 chassis. Even the gas Workhorse chassis has it's own unique problems and fixes that don't relate well to the F-53. It's hard to believe that something as simple as moving the links on the swaybar can make such a profound difference in ride and handling as the CHF and you won't know till you try it.

Here's a link to a post I wrote on our upgrades. The steering stabilizer made the biggest improvement and I recommend it to anyone. It makes such a difference.
Here is the link to the post about suspension upgrades

I added roadmaster sway bars front and rear, safe t plus steering stabilizer and kelderman air bags in front. Am very pleased with everything except the air bags. The air bags do help with harsh bumps, but do tend to bounce. I understand that the new liquid springs system is very good, but pretty pricey.

Can not help with suspension as I drive a workhorse (Nice anti-sway bar)

Steering. I use a Blue Ox Tru-Center.. The reason I choose it was the button that lets me adjust the center point FROM the driver? seat. at the time there was only one that did that.

Today I understand Safe-T-Steer offers that as an option

Either one should work.

First things first....if you're getting a lot of body roll, or "sway," you need to check the sway bar bushings, and probably replace them with the newer poly bushings. I had terrible sway on my 1999 F53 when I first got it, and found that the OEM bushings had completely deteriorated. Replaced them with poly bushings and that made all the difference in the world. Since then, I have replaced all 4 leaf springs, added new Bilstein shocks, and Firestone Ride Rite air bag helper springs on all 4 corners. She now handles like I've always thought she should. One last thing I'm going to do to her, suspension-wise, is to add a rear track bar. I've considered the steering stabilizer, but I don't have the wandering steering wheel that everyone else seems to complain about.

With the F-53 chassis there's a "cheap fix" for that top heavy feeling. All you need to do is move the bolts for the existing factory swaybar closer to the axle. The factory position has the bolts in the outer holes. Moving them closer to the axle does wonders to minimize the lean present in the stock arrangement. However, because it puts a bigger strain on the stock swaybar, the original bushings will fail shortly after the change. You'll need to replace the original bushing with polyurethane bushings so they'll last. These changes will the least expensive and most effective ones you'll ever make to your chassis.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MozieIP58PY

There's a lot more on this available - just try a search for "F53 cheap fix" and you'll find them.