OK so i'm not a plumbing expert. I bought a 95 class c that the previous owner had lines running everywhere in a maze and nothing is hooked up. Rather than try to guess what he had done I am just going to start over and run all new lines, especially since there was no hot water heater. A couple of questions: can I use braided 1/2" ID hose and hose clamps instead of hard pex lines for everything? makes it easier to flex and go around any curves needed if I can. 2nd, if anyone has a general diagram of how the lines are hooked up that would be great. I have a 6 gallon suburban heater from a salvage camper I will install, and the rig has a toilet, shower, and one sink in kitchen. There is no bathroom sink as it has a "wet bath" with toilet in the shower stall. diagram of how all this would hook up from city water and water pump from fresh water tank is what i'm looking for. Thanks!

Need name of manufacturer and model. Take photos and post would help also.

As long as the lines will withstand at least 55 psi should be OK.As for diagram? You need cold water to each faucet and water heater. You need hot water from the heater to each faucet. Pretty basic stuff.

Mobile, You have at least three issues here. 1 - That vinyl line with braid reinforcement is usually not for drinking water as it contains lead. Read carefully before you buy. 2 - That same vinyl is also not usually rated for hot water service.3 - That vinyl has relatively high creep. With time the clamps will get loose and leaks will start. So don't put any joints anyplace you can't easily sung up the clamp. Matt

I say use the PEX with the solid crimp fittings, it's just too easy to use and will withstand whatever you throw at it. Need to go round a corner use a 90 deg fitting. Also use the correct cutter you'll thank yourself later.

Just sketch out a rough diagram of your layout. You'll basically have a line from the fresh water tank to the pump. Then one line to the farthest point. Tee off for each item and include a low point drain for winterizing. Then a by-pass for the water heater and hot water line to farthest point and tee as needed with a low point drain which should be near the cold low point drain.The city water should have a check valve, not sure if it's built into the connector or what as I've never had any trouble with one. It will have to plumb in downstream from the pump into the cold water line.Just sketch it out with a pencil and keep going over it making changes and looking at the rig until your sure of your setup. Keep a finalized drawing in ink once your done for future reference and you'll be a way ahead of us that have no idea where our lines run. Good luck.

major plumbing help needed- starting from scratch!

trop-a-cal
Explorer
Dec 18, 2013
Need name of manufacturer and model. Take photos and post would help also.
donn0128
Explorer II
Dec 18, 2013
As long as the lines will withstand at least 55 psi should be OK.

As for diagram? You need cold water to each faucet and water heater. You need hot water from the heater to each faucet. Pretty basic stuff.
Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Dec 18, 2013
Mobile,

You have at least three issues here.
1 - That vinyl line with braid reinforcement is usually not for drinking water as it contains lead. Read carefully before you buy.
2 - That same vinyl is also not usually rated for hot water service.
3 - That vinyl has relatively high creep. With time the clamps will get loose and leaks will start. So don't put any joints anyplace you can't easily sung up the clamp.

Matt
oilslick
Explorer
Dec 18, 2013
I say use the PEX with the solid crimp fittings, it's just too easy to use and will withstand whatever you throw at it. Need to go round a corner use a 90 deg fitting. Also use the correct cutter you'll thank yourself later.
Peg_Leg
Explorer
Dec 19, 2013
Just sketch out a rough diagram of your layout. You'll basically have a line from the fresh water tank to the pump. Then one line to the farthest point. Tee off for each item and include a low point drain for winterizing. Then a by-pass for the water heater and hot water line to farthest point and tee as needed with a low point drain which should be near the cold low point drain.

The city water should have a check valve, not sure if it's built into the connector or what as I've never had any trouble with one. It will have to plumb in downstream from the pump into the cold water line.

Just sketch it out with a pencil and keep going over it making changes and looking at the rig until your sure of your setup. Keep a finalized drawing in ink once your done for future reference and you'll be a way ahead of us that have no idea where our lines run.

Good luck.
GrumpyandGrandm
Explorer
Dec 19, 2013
oilslick wrote:
I say use the PEX with the solid crimp fittings, it's just too easy to use and will withstand whatever you throw at it. Need to go round a corner use a 90 deg fitting. Also use the correct cutter you'll thank yourself later.

I'd skip the PEX and use Shark Bite fittings. No special tools needed, just push the tubing in and move on.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 19, 2013
RV water system........

If installing a toilet sprayer.......suggest it come off downstream of toilet water valve so that pressure is on sprayer only when flushing toilet (diagram shows it coming off prior to toilet...full line pressure on sprayer-----can leak)

Use 1/2" braided line on pump discharge so pump is not rigid.

For the rest of system........1/2" PEX (otherwise you will be chasing leaks at those hose clamp/fittings with the braided line)
calamus
Explorer
Dec 19, 2013
Pex will last longer and be more durable in the long run cheaper as well. use brass fittings vs. nylon they hold up much better also. Do some searching online for water heaters big price difference and you may be able to find a bigger one that will fit with a few modifications. Good luck to you
ScottG
Nomad
Dec 19, 2013
Here's the thing; plumbing work turns out great when you do it right. If you take shortcuts it will bite you in the ars.
So use Pex and the appropriate fittings (Sharkbite or barb) or you'll be back here asking why your having all the odd problems ;)
mlts22
Explorer
Dec 19, 2013
PEX is the way to go. As for fittings, Flair-It are easily installable (and removable) with no tools (which is important in those really tight spots), and you can buy a cinch clamp ring tool for about $40 which is used for RV connections by some makers, so work with that is up to par. The pros use expansion connectors, but the tool for that can cost $750.