My Alternative To Double Towing Behind Motorhome

i wondered that myself , i would check custom welding shops and prefab something light out of aluminum , i have several guys around my place that can build anything, if not hauling too much weight they can get creative on the light weight material to build it out of..

sch911 wrote:

timmac wrote:
Yep, however how many add after market upgrades to increase towing/load above specs, I would say about 1 out of 4 do it here that post on this forum..

Wishful thinking on your part [COLOR=]AFAIK.

I wish you well, and hope you don't hurt yourself or others.

Good luck....

What does AFAIK suppose to mean..

RognBon wrote:

Posted By wrote:
My Bounder has the back frame channel tubes added for strength, tubes go in 4 ft from back and welded to factory frame, the hitch has been welded to the added frame, rear air bags and Banks Power system, this was setup by last owner because I think he towed a race car, factory hitch was 5000 lbs, not sure where its at now but at least 6500 lbs

That's all well and good. BUT, what about two of the other parts of the total equation, which are the TRANSMISSION and the BRAKES? Just beefing up the frame will not do one thing to increase the towing capability of the transmission or the stopping power of the brakes. JMHO, but it seems to me that your best option is to purchase a coach which is capable of handling the load you want to haul. Perhaps a DP with a 10000 pound towing capacity.

Same transmission they use in the 36 to 38 footers that are 3000 lbs or more heaver, so I think I am OK in that department, my rv is 33 foot 17500 lbs curb weight by the way.

Besides I am only talking about 500 to 800 lbs over towing weight if I can get a open double deck trailer light enough..

Posted By wrote:
My Bounder has the back frame channel tubes added for strength, tubes go in 4 ft from back and welded to factory frame, the hitch has been welded to the added frame, rear air bags and Banks Power system, this was setup by last owner because I think he towed a race car, factory hitch was 5000 lbs, not sure where its at now but at least 6500 lbs

That's all well and good. BUT, what about two of the other parts of the total equation, which are the TRANSMISSION and the BRAKES? Just beefing up the frame will not do one thing to increase the towing capability of the transmission or the stopping power of the brakes. JMHO, but it seems to me that your best option is to purchase a coach which is capable of handling the load you want to haul. Perhaps a DP with a 10000 pound towing capacity.

timmac wrote:
Yep, however how many add after market upgrades to increase towing/load above specs, I would say about 1 out of 4 do it here that post on this forum..

Wishful thinking on your part AFAIK.

I wish you well, and hope you don't hurt yourself or others.

Good luck....

timmac wrote:

Nomadac wrote:


The MH Manufacturer determines the towing capacity, regardless of what you do to change it, more than just changing the hitch, etc.

Yep, however how many add after market upgrades to increase towing/load above specs, I would say about 1 out of 4 do it here that post on this forum..

I can assure you I don't. I never have in the many different rigs we've owned. I'm real curious to the 1 in 4 statement. I pray you're wrong.

I give experienced double deck car haulers plenty of room on the road. I've seen how they fight to control those rigs. If it doesn't fit why not just just get the correct towing combination to get it done safely and correctly?

Nomadac wrote:


The MH Manufacturer determines the towing capacity, regardless of what you do to change it, more than just changing the hitch, etc.

Yep, however how many add after market upgrades to increase towing/load above specs, I would say about 1 out of 4 do it here that post on this forum..

timmac wrote:

sch911 wrote:
I don't think your Bounder gasser can tow anywhere near enough to tow that type of setup. Are you sure you don't have a 5K limit?

My Bounder has the back frame channel tubes added for strength, tubes go in 4 ft from back and welded to factory frame, the hitch has been welded to the added frame, rear air bags and Banks Power system, this was setup by last owner because I think he towed a race car, factory hitch was 5000 lbs, not sure where its at now but at least 6500 lbs.

Also My Jeep weights 3600 lbs, boat/motor/trailer weights 450 lbs, {inflatable boat}, that is 4050 lbs total NOT including the double deck trailer.

Also note a trailer should tow easier than my 4 all terrain tires on Jeep that I flat tow, hopefully I can get or make a small double deck trailer that weights under 1500 lbs.

The MH Manufacturer determines the towing capacity, regardless of what you do to change it, more than just changing the hitch, etc.

AYRTIME wrote:
Check this out!

Link

Thanks but that is to much $$ and I don't need a double deck that large.

sch911 wrote:
I don't think your Bounder gasser can tow anywhere near enough to tow that type of setup. Are you sure you don't have a 5K limit?

My Bounder has the back frame channel tubes added for strength, tubes go in 4 ft from back and welded to factory frame, the hitch has been welded to the added frame, rear air bags and Banks Power system, this was setup by last owner because I think he towed a race car, factory hitch was 5000 lbs, not sure where its at now but at least 6500 lbs.

Also My Jeep weights 3600 lbs, boat/motor/trailer weights 450 lbs, {inflatable boat}, that is 4050 lbs total NOT including the double deck trailer.

Also note a trailer should tow easier than my 4 all terrain tires on Jeep that I flat tow, hopefully I can get or make a small double deck trailer that weights under 1500 lbs.