Any suggestions on Brands. Warranty effected if in a motor home? I am replacing the always wonderful forever 45 degrees Norcold 1201LRIM. Those dimensions are where I am trying to stay. Top freezer. I'm listening folks. Just can't buy a rebuilt or new cooling unit for a 4 door BOMB. thanks

It took awhile but I finally found a home refer that was very close... 1/2" too tall. DW wanted to save the drawer below our 1200 but unless the DW is fairly tall, having the freezer against the ceiling may not work. My DIY home refer install.

I just replaced the cooling unit in my 1200. Everyone said to replace with residential but it would require taking the front windshield out and having a dealer do it costing hundreds and hundreds plus the trim work. So I went with a new Amish Built for about $1200. It works better than new. Easy enough to do. A helper makes it easier.

I replaced my cooling unit five years ago with a Amish one and while it worked better, it still was not great. The 21 cuft Whirlpool uses less than 100 watts AC when running as the compressor is not much larger than a grapefruit.Here are the model # that I found at Home Depot:Whirlpool refer on sale for $648 plus $99 for a ice maker...WRT311FZDW... whiteWRT311FZDB... blackSS for $949.

My Dometic always stays under 35 degrees in cooler months and under 40 degrees in hotter months, why not just change brands and keep the gas operation during dry camping..

Do some close measuring. Before you purchase look at a counter depth model ref. as the box on my 23.5 cu.ft. Samsung is 24" with the doors off verses 31" on a standard refer. My entrance door is 26" leaving 2" to spare allowing it to come through after removing the drivers and passenger seats. The old 1200 lrim also went out the door after removing it's doors. I have no vested interest in Samsung but they will not void your warranty when installed in a RV as some other manufacturers do. They will also run with no ill effects on a modified sine wave inverter as the incoming power is rectified to a DC voltage and the compressor and cooling fans all run on DC. These components also are variable speed and operate more efficiently using less power. My refer is above the furnace and by building a steel platform bolted through the floor and lowering it we still can reach the top shelf. Also removed the old wall that was adjacent to the Norcold. Yes it was a fairly large project but as Dennis says "I have to micro wave the ice cream to make it soft enough to serve". Had $1100 in the swap and never looked back. PM me if you have any questions or would like some pics. Blessings; Keith

NeverCold out.... going residential. | Good Sam Community

Aridon
Explorer
Jan 30, 2017
When ours failed spectacularly we swapped to residential. Pull the Norcold and measure. You likely have far more space than you think you do. There is a good bit of room in there and you can easily cut the cabinet to fit. Go to home depot and get some trim to cover up the odd dimension that won't fix correctly, strap it down to the floor and enjoy. Just watch your dimensions with the doors closed and open if it is on a slide or in a tight space. Ensure you have room regardless of slide position so you aren't suck taking the handles off every time you move.

I wouldn't go back to the norcold. It is a piece of **** and my food lasts much longer in the residential. Likely because it isn't sitting in the 40's degree area when it is super hot or cold.

Edit:

One other thing, it is trivial to add water to any fridge even in a slide. I simply put a hole on the slide where the water line comes out and I connect one tiny hose when we setup for ice and water to the fridge from out RO system. Well worth the 30 seconds it takes me.
MrWizard
Moderator
Jan 30, 2017
How much space depends on whether the coils are in the sides Or on the back
On back no side clearance needed
On the sides 2" seems to work well
Close of the back but do not use inside trim on the front
This way air can circulate around the sides
sschmidt4498
Explorer
Jan 30, 2017
I agree -- replace the NeverCold. We just bought a brand new Grand Design 303RLS fifth wheel. We are living in it temporarily (Colorado) as sold our house. When temperatures dipped below 30 degrees, it stopped working. Got ahold of Grand Design and Thedford. Excuse was it doesn't operate under 32 degrees without a cold pack part. The model is a N811FRT. Let's see -- I bought a fifth wheel with an Arctic Package and duo pane windows. You think I would want a refrigerator installed that doesn't work under 32 degrees. Well guess the manufacturer thought so as had to argue with them to get it fixed. In the meantime, kept food outside in a cooler for two weeks waiting for weather to permit us to take it to Grand Junction for warranty work. Oh, before took it down there it mysteriously started working. Had the cold pack installed -- basically heat tape on the back of the refrigerator. Have to uncook it in warm weather so doesn't overheat. Well all was fine until two days ago. We aren't talking below zero weather! At night its been around 20 degrees and in the daytime 45 degrees. Well it stopped working again and I'm back to a cooler outside. Brand new rig. Brand new refrigerator. And, it doesn't work! I'm shopping right now for an electric apartment refrigerator. My one question is how much space do I need around it? I've read 3" each side and back. Depth seems to be the primary issue to allow for this much air space in back. There are top and bottom plastic vent on our rig for NeverCold refrigerator ventilation. The refrigerator is on the side slideout. Does that provide enough back ventilation?
kdk
Explorer
Feb 20, 2016
I have had warranty work on my Samsung 23.5 cu.ft. twice for bad control panels. They have now revised them and have not had any problems in the last 3 years. Samsung will warranty the refer in a motor home, its just their requirement that if the service tech needs access to the rear of the unit, it is the owners responsibility to remove the refer from from its hole. During the initial install I fabricated a platform that allows me to roll it out. Before purchasing I contacted customer service and was assured the warranty would not be voided. A little more info is that when purchasing be sure to get a counter depth model. After removing the doors it would fit through the entrance door. The box on a counter depth is 24" and my entrance door is 26". Also Samsung refers will operate on a modified sine wave inverter. Hope this helps; kdk
supercub
Explorer
Feb 20, 2016
bfast54 wrote:
supercub wrote:
Personally, I'm very satisfied with my Norcold Frig, I have taken some precautions, by installing a fire extinguisher behind the unit and I've also installed the ARP control. I've also had the unit inspected and it's in very good condition, plus I open the panel and inspect it every once in awhile. I can't remember and no longer have the info, but when I hear talk about an exchange Amish unit, if people realize they have more then one choice. When I looked into exchange units a couple year ago, I found the typical Amish unit, plus a gentleman that built a superior unit even to the Amish units (he happens to be Amish also, as I remember). I know if I ever have a problem, his is the way I would go. Sorry, I can't remember his name, but I'm sure doing some searching and you'd find him. Most of my traveling is done solo, so room in the frig is never a problem for me. I can understand a family needing more room and a residential frig would be helpful.

Most likely National RV - Ref. In Shipshawana.........He is GREAT !!!!!

Yes, I believe that's the gentleman I was talking about, thanks
bfast54
Explorer
Feb 20, 2016
supercub wrote:
Personally, I'm very satisfied with my Norcold Frig, I have taken some precautions, by installing a fire extinguisher behind the unit and I've also installed the ARP control. I've also had the unit inspected and it's in very good condition, plus I open the panel and inspect it every once in awhile. I can't remember and no longer have the info, but when I hear talk about an exchange Amish unit, if people realize they have more then one choice. When I looked into exchange units a couple year ago, I found the typical Amish unit, plus a gentleman that built a superior unit even to the Amish units (he happens to be Amish also, as I remember). I know if I ever have a problem, his is the way I would go. Sorry, I can't remember his name, but I'm sure doing some searching and you'd find him. Most of my traveling is done solo, so room in the frig is never a problem for me. I can understand a family needing more room and a residential frig would be helpful.

Most likely National RV - Ref. In Shipshawana.........He is GREAT !!!!!
John___Angela
Explorer
Feb 20, 2016
Just curious how many have had or have heard of a residential fridge failing in an RV.

I also wonder how the RV manufacturers are dealing with the warranty issue.

Ours is a whirlpool and I suspect not warrantied but its already been more than 4 years so.....
rkentzel
Explorer
Feb 20, 2016
H. This Warranty does not cover any Samsung-branded refrigerators
which are or have been installed in a movable dwelling such as a
caravans (travel trailer) or house boat. These Samsung consumer
products are not designed to be used in such moveable dwellings
DSDP_Don
Explorer
Feb 20, 2016
mowermech wrote:
Well, of course, you can do what you want, it is, after all your rig and your money.
However, keep in mind that there are those of us that, if we are shopping and you are selling, and your rig is perfect for us in every way, when we see the 110VAC frig, we will walk away.
I have done it several times before, and I will do it again!
It just isn't something that I want!

Absolutely, buy what you want, but soon, you won't find any large Class A RV's that don't have a residential fridge. As a matter of fact, if you want a propane unit, you'll probably have to remove a residential unit and replace it with a propane unit.

Propane units are dinosaurs and will soon only be found in small trailers and budget units. You can disagree with this all you want, but residential refers are the future.
mike_brez
Explorer
Feb 20, 2016
dons2346 wrote:
Big Katuna wrote:
I' don't consider myself a naysayer. But in my case, I could do the cooling unit replacement myself for about $1200 in a day in my driveway vs taking it to a dealer, taking out a windshield with associated risks and lots of labor; at least a thousand more plus maybe weeks of waiting and iffy trim work.

And it still works on gas and performs better than stock perfectly well.

Well, you are a naysayer. I had a residential refer installed for less than $1200 and it took less than a day to do it. Plus I had it done and didn't have to worry about and the windshield wasn't removed either!

To the OP, don't listen to those that haven't had the exchange done. If they haven't done the dance, they don't know the music.

A residential refer install is one of the best mods you can do to make your coach a more fire resistant coach.

Oh by the way,after having a residential refer, I wouldn't have a Dometic/Nocold unit up my shorts if I had room for a sawmill