New Class C owner stability control??

Few men are more expert in RV driving/handling issues than the Henderson clan in Grants Pass Oregon. I made it a point to visit there and saw it as a pilgrimage, those guys are that good.

They install a lot of Roadmaster items and of course they make and install the Super Steer product line. I visited Hendersons Line Up and Super Steer while I was there, separate buildings at the same site. Oddly to me, they like the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer. I would have expected them to carry Roadmaster's Reflex stabilizer but didn't get into discussion of why. John Henderson did alignments for years, and did the E-Series with the additional caster discussed so often here. 5* left and 5.5* right, left camber +1/4*, right camber 0* and just a little positive toe. He said adding an S-T-P unit to the front was equivalent to upping the caster. That surprised me, yet it seemed they're doing less caster changes and more S-T-P installs. Anyhow, Reflex should offer the same benefits as S-T-P. I can see where it might be a little harder to adjust since it uses one coil spring in a push/pull setup vs. two coils in S-T-P where one spring extends as the other compresses. Just remember what I said earlier: Any stabilizer with springs MUST be installed dead center, or it'll introduce a steering "pull" that wasn't there before.

First step is to weigh the rig in travel mode, all gear on board and adjust the tire pressure according to the load. Next, DO NOT carry more than 1/4 tank of fresh water on the road. The tank is most likely under the bed and back of the axle. This unloads the front axle and does not help steering at all. I think you will find that you are really close to the chassis weight limits.

Now while loaded fro travel, get the front end alignment set by a good truck suspension shop...not a Ford dealer.

Based on out experience with a 31' Minnie Winnie DL, the chassis does not have enough anti-roll bars or shocks to handle the load. Get some heavy duty Hellwig anti-roll bars with urethane bushings (both front and rear) and HD Bilstein shocks.

One step more is to put the Air Lift air springs on the front and rear.

With these changes, our Minnie Winnie was transformed from a difficult to drive to a pleasure to drive even in the wind. The "steering stabilizer" is a crutch and does nothing toward correcting the chassis problems.

Ken

Test driving a new show-room rig before buying will be a hit-or-miss when it comes to revealing handling issues. Once the rig is loaded with fresh water and all the rest, it will handle differently. But even then you won't know if the rig has handling issues until you get on the open road and then the environment around you changes for the worse. All is well until you experience a day full of gusting cross winds.

I advise to also upgrade your front stabilizer bar. Not just your rear bar. Having both front and rear stabilizer bars upgraded to "Heavy Duty" will help a lot. But understand that everything helps. There is no total cure. After-all, it is a huge box that winds will play with.

stew9483,

As a wild guess, I'd say that on a rig that size, tire pressures of 65-70 are way too low for the rear tires, and most likely too low for the front as well.

Make weighing it (loaded as you travel) a priority and adjust pressures accordingly. Then see what, if anything, else needs to be done. Always try the cheapest options first. :)

~Rick

Thanks for all the replies. I am use to pulling travel trailers so yes the MH is a new beast for me. On my way home I handled it a lot better but it did take some getting use to. My tire pressure is around 65-70. I plan on getting the unit weighed soon to determine correct pressure for each axle. Was also hoping that by going with the steering stabilizer and the rear sway bar it would help with the passing 18 wheeler s and cross winds. I love this new motorhome. This newbee just has a lot to learn. lol. Thanks again for all the comments.

Its to bad vehicles leave the factory the way some do too !
I completely don't understand why any MH over 19ft would come unequipped with a rear sway bar, heavy duty shocks and an alignment after it leaves the MH factory for starters !

Granted our MH is older 2005 , but when I replaced the shocks with Bilsteins and installed the rear sway bar it was like driving a different MH.

Not to get into a debate about tire pressures and charts, but I have found out by experimentation, that on our 32 ft. class c (Tioga), that with 72 front and 80 rear, it rides the best.

After reading several posts such as this I was a little fearful of how my rig would handle but I'm extremely happy with it. I wouldn't spend a nickel on improvements. It drives fine fully loaded or fully unloaded, towing or not towing. I really wonder how much of this has to do with those that have never driven anything bigger than a pick-up. I think some of the things mentioned will stiffen things up a bit (especially the hellwig sway bar) but it ain't no car.

Plus 1 on the tire pressure, especially the front. I'll bet that they are aired up to 80psi, way to much for the load on the front. Had similar handling issues when ours were at 80, Michelin guide recommends 65 for our weight on front. After lowering the pressure to 65-70 handling was much improved.

Ken

stew9483 wrote:
Just got back from my first trip in our NEW Thor Chateau 31E Motorhome and I must say there were a few white knuckle experiences. It was rather windy the first day. So I have went and purchased a Roadmaster Reflex steering stabilizer and a Hellwig rear sway bar hoping this will help out a lot. Have any of you tried these products on your Class C? They came highly recommended and I want to enjoy this RV not be scared to drive it. We bought it to head across country and to enjoy the camping life style again. We had a travel trailer back in the 90's and loved it. Now the kids are grown and its our time. Hope to get these installed next week before our next trip.

Your post illustrates the necessity for a thorough test drive Before buying any RV, new or used. Any rig, especially a new one, that needs thousands of dollars of of suspension modifications right off the dealers lot is the wrong product.

A simple check of the tire pressures before the test drive is essential. You can split the difference between the dry weight and the GVWR as a starting g point (for an empty coach) and set the psi accordingly based upon the tire manufacturers recommendations. Run from any dealer who balks at doing this.

A test drive should include some serious interstate time at a variety of speeds, hopefully on a windy day. How does it respond to passing 18 wheelers? How is the visibility (blind spots)? A run up and down a healthy grade, 6% would be ideal but probably not available). Does it track in a straight line without steering input? It should.

Often merely getting the tire pressures correct and perhaps a proper alignment (which most rigs do not come with), will negate any need to spend thousands of dollars on after market bolt on solutions {which may or may not work}.

As always.... opinions and YMMV.

:C