Newbie questions

Neracoal wrote:

Mudshovel wrote:

Neracoal wrote:
Thought about it and I think it is because I haven't screwed the cab to the bunk yet. That should make it move more as one piece. Thoughts?

Use a whole box of screws!:)

Serious?

Well I was being funny but I've gone by my rule of thumb on old units, if the factory use 10 screws, but left out 12 add that together and multiply it by 2, ie 44.

I noticed on my Shasta the factory only secured the RH corner at the cab, and didn't put one screw on the LH side, get the idea? these thing were thrown together very fast and cheap so sometimes you kinda have to re-engineer the assembly process. And again not seeing what you are I suggest a # 10 or #12 washer head sheet metal screw every 2" to 3" around the van roof into the bunk floor but keep in mind where the support/ stucture (studs) are in the floor so your screwing into something other than thin plywood, again unknown what your working with.
My Shasta has 1" thick studs sandwiched between two sheets of 5mm plywood with faom board insulation in the middle all glued and stapled. When I did my Cobra M/H in the past it used a 1" sheet of plywood wich was very strong but twice as heavy.

This is what my bunk floor structure looks like less the insulation.

And this is how mine was attached, not very well as all my fastners had rusted away and fell out, but it looks like there was a screw every inch or two for the most part and a few down from the top side into the side wood going from cab to outer wall and several screws going up from bottom into the wall frame wich is aluminium. and I have to say my M/H wobbles like a wet noodle right now with this floor out. Make sure if it means much to you to square up your wall to your cab before screwing down and check to make sure the cab has not racked itself buy looking at the fitment of the cab doors and how well they open and close. If adjustment is needed now would be the time to do so.
I hope this has been some help for you.