Usually... When you coach is plugged into "shore tie" (a power pedestal in a campground, and many of us have installed an RV outlet at home), the Converter/Charger will go ON, unless you turn the 120 VAC breaker that supplies it Off. But, if you turn your Battery Switch Off, none of your 12 VDC stuff will work. Lights, furnace, A/C if it has a wall thermostat, fridge. Usually when you're using the coach, appliances are running, lights go on, you play the radio, etc. That keeps the Converter/Charger from overcharging your Coach (aka House) battery. It's when you leave it plugged in and NOT in use, that the battery-boiling issue can surface. Our older coach (1984) had it BAD. The one we have now (2002) doesn't have anything special in that department, but it does NOT boil the battery.
You need to turn that Battery Switch OFF if you aren't using the coach and don't have it plugged in. There are "parasitic loads" like the LPG leak detector that'll run the battery down in a few days.
Get your mechanic to tell you what kind of Tire Valves you have. Rubber ones aren't a very good choice. They're kinda sorta OK if you don't attach extenders or adapters to them, though. Problem is, with just ordinary valves, it can be hard to check and inflate your rear dual tires. Camping World sells
Borg Dually Valves, which I have. They require a tire shop (or possibly your mechanic) to install but worth weight in gold. If your new tires have new valves AND you don't attach anything to them but the caps, you're OK for awhile. The long-term answer to this is valves like Dually. Just be sure you or somebody you go to, can check the pressures.