No power

do you have a 30 amp or 50 amp setup? A 50 amp setup has two Hot "Legs" one of which could be "dead" accounting for the batteries not charging from the shore power or the generator. The live"Leg" could account for the microwave working.

If you think that the batteries are drained of charge and you can get to your house batteries then jump them or borrow a battery charger and hook it up . Make sure your shore power is not plugged in and your generator is not started and for good measure don't start the chassis engine.

I couldn't agree more that you need to get a meter. With just a little deduction all this discussion will become unnecessary and you will have the knowledge for the future.

cgmartine wrote:
Are you saying that with the engine and generator running you still cannot operate the slide? Remember, in most motorhomes, you need to have the parking brake set. Also, when you said you can start the generator with the engine running...are you doing so with the generator auxiliary start switch? I think at this point you need to start with the basics....i.e. a multi meter.

X2 a meter would go a long way in determining at what point there is any failures or drains. Was wondering if there were any bad toggle switches too.

Are you saying that with the engine and generator running you still cannot operate the slide? Remember, in most motorhomes, you need to have the parking brake set. Also, when you said you can start the generator with the engine running...are you doing so with the generator auxiliary start switch? I think at this point you need to start with the basics....i.e. a multi meter.

If you don't have a voltmeter or don't know how to check if the house battery(s) is dead, take the rig into an RV service or call a mobile RV service and have them trouble shoot the rig. You will want to know if your converter/charger is putting out 12 volt DC power to charge the house battery(s)and if the batteries are "shot". Battery connectors must be kept clean by periodic wire brushing and connector clamps must be tight to make a proper connection so that battery(s) will be charged and provide power to your interior lights, furnace blower, electronic appliance controls and alarms.

Make sure that the auxiliary battery switch is on, not in storage mode. If you need new house batteries, get good quality "deep cycle" RV batteries. Note exactly how the battery(s) are connected with red positive and black negative cables and connect new battery(s) the same way or risk fireworks and damage to electrical system. Some RV's have a single 12 volt house battery, others have two 6 volt batteries connected in series. I bought good quality US brand batteries at a local battery supply much cheaper than common Trojan brand batteries used in RV's.

Advice: Buy an inexpensive $10 digital multi-meter at Harbor Freight and learn how to use it to check battery voltage and whether the converter/charger is working. Also useful for checking whether fuses are blown or good, etc. Buy a battery fluid filler with rubber bulb to add DISTILLED water to batteries as needed to cover the plates inside. All RV'ers should know how the 12 volt power system works and how to check and maintain house and starting batteries, will save you time, money and trouble extend the life of batteries. BTW, letting batteries go dead shortens their life drastically. Batteries are heavy and awkward to handle , get help if needed to remove and replace them.

There could be reverse polarity fuses in the converter.
Only the microwave works, What about the air conditioner?
Doubt whether you have an inverter large enough to operate the microwave, so I believe you have a 120 volt power issue.
Does your rig have an automatic transfer switch for genset or do you have to plug it into a receptacle in the shore power compartment?

Since i cant get back slide out it is difficult to see the fuse and breaker box at the end of the bed. I don't see any fuse marked for converter. I think maybe the converter is under the bed but not sure. Again not sure if i can get bed frame up with slide in. Are there other fuses on the actual converter or only in the breaker box?

Check for a GFI being tripped. That may get 120 volt AC working. Then check operation of Converter. Converter and house batteries may be bad.

Checked the breakers and nothing changed.. tried to start generator but will only start with motor running. Sounds like the auxiliary batteries are dead doesn't it? I have toggled the battery connect switch and it still wont come on.

I agree, if you can start the engine and the generator....both sets of batteries are fine. Also, the microwave works off of 120vac (shore power or generator) as do the AC units, which means your inverter is supplying 120vac to the microwave.

If you don't have 12vdc, I suspect that you have inadvertently switched the salesman's switch off at the door.

Ron

If the generator started readily, then they most likely still have a sufficient charge and may not need replacing. If you have a multi meter, test them to make sure you have enough voltage. I would not replace them just yet, unless they are getting past five years old. You said you left it "plugged in," so I will assume that the converter kept the batteries maintained. With the engine running, and the brake set, you should be able to operate the slide to allow you to check the fuse box. Most likely, something tripped, and is most likely the culprit, instead of the batteries.