noisy water pump

Gene in NE wrote:
I was going to put in an accumulator tank, but could not figure out an easy way to keep from filling the tank with RV antifreeze when winterizing.

When there is no water pressure, the tank is empty, regardless if orientation because it has a rubber bladder (like an inner tube) that remains pressurized. The rubber is seen tight against the screened opening of the tank at the fitting. There is no concern of water freezing inside. No plumbing pressure means no water, so don't worry about winterizing.

They recommend 10 to 20 psi in the tank when there is no pressure in the plumbing. The shrader valve is behind the 2" plastic dome on the opposite side of the fitting. In my picture above, it is that blue cap up top. It unscrews off the valve. In my case I access that valve by removing the bed platform. During installation, you need to consider access to the valve.

Gene in NE
Wonder if you can put a shut off for the accumulator tank to keep the anti freeze out of it.
zac451

zac451 - I can get to my pump fairly easily. It is under the dinette seat. I turned on the pump and opened one of the faucets to a fast drip. Then got close to the pump to see where the noise was coming from. Most of it was from the flexible "pex" tubing vibrating against the wall of the RV. Some small bubble blister packing wrapped in the correct place made it reasonably quiet.

I was going to put in an accumulator tank, but could not figure out an easy way to keep from filling the tank with RV antifreeze when winterizing.

You can make it quieter. You might even be able to make it quiet enough. I was able to make mine quiet enough with the kit and I also used pipe insulation to stop the rattling.

That being said I also will not shed a tear when this pump pukes and I have a valid reason to buy the much better one.

Paul

Thanks everyone for you ideas, for what I paid for this 2013 Freedom Elite, I don't want to contribute any more then I Have too...$$$$. I will try your ideas first and let you know what works....Zac451
By the way, I was just at Thor to get some repairs done on my slide out. Great people to work with. The Mechanics are great and the service Reps will do everything they can to make you happy.
Also met a great Guy (Aikenracer)From SC that was there for some repairs on his Bigggg Pusher. It was nice to have someone to talk to while I was waiting for my repairs to be done.
Thanks again for the replies.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You can also install a small accumulator tank in discharge line. That will minimize the pump cycling times which helps quiet it down.

I installed a 2 gallon accumulator and it really makes the RV water pressure more like a house. Water pressure is more consistent, especially beneficial when taking a shower. The pump cycles nicely, a much more friendly sound than the on/off groaning all the time.

Total investment was between $40 & $50. If you look close, the brass elbow to the left has the flex hose attached from behind. I also added a ball valve seen in the foreground, for an emergency just in case I had a catestrphic failure of some sort and needed to quickly cut off the supply from the fresh water tank. 5 years so far and the setup is still working great.

Exactly....the pump discharge line should be a flex hose vs rigid pipe.
Also secure the piping so that is doesn't move around banging on inside of cabinet.

You can also install a small accumulator tank in discharge line. That will minimize the pump cycling times which helps quiet it down.

Pump should be mounted on rubber feet....if loose or too tight it will be nosier.

No need to replace your pump. You only need to isolate the pump vibration from the RV plumbing. Install a stainless steel braided intermediate piece of plumbing like shown here, making a world of difference. Also make sure your pump is mounted with rubber grommets.

Sold in all home improvement centers in lengths from 6" to numerous feet. Cost is very affordable.

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