Norcold 1200 won't turn on ??
Frig has been working fine. When I got up this morning it wasn't working, tried turning it on and nothing. I took a magnet and ran it across the little box outside and still nothing. The little bo...
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tropical36 wrote:supercub wrote:
Thanks for the info. I have the ARP, I also installed a fire extinguisher and the unit is in very good condition. I frequently check it for any leaks, and it has worked great for years. So I really see no need to replace it. This is only the second time the safety switch has tripped and both times have been to washing. Thanks again for the help.
Sounds like you have the ARP connected in series with the NC device.
I didn't do that and see no need even though it says to. ARP has to say that for liability reasons. I mean if it's OK for NC's at a cutoff of 600F or so, why isn't it OK for the lone ARP to trip at around 350F?
Biggest thing with the compressor versions is for quick and deep cold, along with quick recovery's with the door openings and closings.
I get it though and didn't convert mine, until it gave up the ship.
I also would remove the Norcold box and just use the ARP system. The 350 degree trip is the CU DAMAGE temp. The 700 Norcold is for when you have NO ventilation or the CU is blocked or leaks. The MAIN cause of RV Ammonia failures is off level operation. The ARP device trips at 350 because when off level, the flue temp rises. This stops the Operation to protect the CU. Most RV'ers do not understand that when operating off level even for 1 hour, THAT, cause a very small breakdown of the CU and all those times when they run off level it accumilates until a few years down the line the Refer fails to do the job. They then think, POS refer. But, THEY caused the failure. They run off level and then they notice that nothing seemed to happen. They dismiss the importance of level because they think nothing happened. Doug
