So many here have helped me that I thought I'd share my solution to a problem.My toilet bowl rinse valve began leaking the other day almost causing a messy toilet bowl overflow. When I took the valve apart all I saw was future recurring problems with it. I decided to do something different and I purchased an inexpensive hand-held kitchen sink dish-sprayer. The sprayer, a hose, and a copper tubing splicing barb, along with two small hose clamps cost me about $16.00 and I couldn’t be more pleased with the outcome. It works far better than the old system and even removes “skid marks” from the bowl walls. Based on using the same device in the kitchen, I expect the sprayer to last for years and when it finally needs to be replaced it’s about a 5-10 minute repair that costs $5-$6. Steve The sprayer, I plan to rig up a better holder for it.

Careful there Geocritter........Unless you installed a shut-off valve before sprayer you have a potential leak hazard.Unlike the sprayers on kitchen faucets.....yours in under full water line pressure ALL the time. They are not designed to handle full line pressure. That is why you have to open kitchen faucet before sprayer works.Just check it....hate to wake up with a water fall going on.

Old-Biscuit wrote:Careful there Geocritter........Unless you installed a shut-off valve before sprayer you have a potential leak hazard.Unlike the sprayers on kitchen faucets.....yours in under full water line pressure ALL the time. They are not designed to handle full line pressure. That is why you have to open kitchen faucet before sprayer works.Just check it....hate to wake up with a water fall going on.That is correct. The hose and sprayer in the kitchen only has pressure when the kitchen faucet is turned on. With the arrangement the OP posted, it has pressure any time the RV's water system is energized.

Old-Biscuit wrote:Careful there Geocritter........Unless you installed a shut-off valve before sprayer you have a potential leak hazard.Unlike the sprayers on kitchen faucets.....yours in under full water line pressure ALL the time. They are not designed to handle full line pressure. That is why you have to open kitchen faucet before sprayer works.Just check it....hate to wake up with a water fall going on.On our toilet the spray wand only works when we press the foot pedal to flush the toilet - without the pedal there is no pressure in the wand...

Alan_Hepburn wrote:Old-Biscuit wrote:Careful there Geocritter........Unless you installed a shut-off valve before sprayer you have a potential leak hazard.Unlike the sprayers on kitchen faucets.....yours in under full water line pressure ALL the time. They are not designed to handle full line pressure. That is why you have to open kitchen faucet before sprayer works.Just check it....hate to wake up with a water fall going on.On our toilet the spray wand only works when we press the foot pedal to flush the toilet - without the pedal there is no pressure in the wand...Correct..it comes off AFTER the OEM water valve.My caution is to Geocritter who it seems has discarded the OEM water valve and hooked up a sprayer direct.

Over flowing toilet problem solved | Good Sam Community

15 Replies

Geocritter
Explorer
Sep 24, 2013
A little update to my toilet repair. I'd spliced the sprayer hose into the toilet fresh water supply line with a copper hose barb and two stainless steel hose clamps. In another post, a fellow talked about his stainless steel hose clamps failing and causing a flood. Sure enough, after a few weeks my stainless clamped joints started to leak slightly. With that in mind I purchased some automotive high-pressure gasoline line hose clamps (for fuel injected engines) and swapped out the stainless clamps for the high-pressure clamps and the problem's solved. Since the RV's small bathtub is located adjacent to the toilet I've taken to putting the spray head into the bathtub area. So far there's been no leakage from the spray head, nor do I expect any, however it's better to be safe than sorry. As for installing an anti-siphon valve, since the line and spray head are completely separate from the toilet I don't see the need.

Overall the spray head keeps the toilet bowl much cleaner than before with far less hands-on hassle. It's pretty effective at saving water too.

Steve
BarbaraOK
Explorer
Sep 01, 2013
Geocritter wrote:
Good point about the full time water pressure. If memory serves I once had an inline pressure regulator for an ice maker, maybe something like that could be adapted. I'll check it out. As for the OEM water valve, it was a piece of junk and deserved to be discarded. I'm sure it would last an adequate time (at least through the warranty) if you only used the RV a week or two out of the year, but using it full time is a different story. I saw nothing but problems with the pathetic arrangement that the manufacturer had built. I do agree that some type of inline shut-off (that can be easily accessed) is a good idea and I'll look into it.
Steve

Our coach is 11years old, we've been fulltiming 7+ years, OEM valve is just fine.

Barb
Stuck_in_first
Explorer
Sep 01, 2013
Did the old system have an anti-siphon. Its required so bad things cant be drawn into your fresh water supply.
zman-az
Explorer
Sep 01, 2013
I fill the bowl part way with water. Then take some tp and fold it like a v. Then place in the bowl. Bombs away and skid mark free.
imgoin4it
Explorer
Aug 31, 2013
In addition to anything / everything else you do I suggest you invest in a battery powered water alarm. One can find them in most ACE hardware stores. Just set it on the floor under or near the commode. At about $15.00 o it is a cheap investment. Ask me how much a new floor costs.
garry1p
Explorer
Aug 31, 2013
Just a suggestion.
use a 12VDC water shut off solenoid and controlled it with a timer switch.

Rotate the switch all the way and 20 seconds (depending on the switch)it shuts the water off.
Geocritter
Explorer
Aug 31, 2013
Y’all have given me pause to think about my adaption here. I’m thinking there’s not a huge concern. I inspected the sprayer valve, it was interesting, when I checked the lever and how the valve worked it appears the valve is pressed shut by both a spring and by water pressure, the spring lightly keeping it seated when the water pressure is turned off. When you press the lever, you open up the valve against the water pressure. With that arrangement I don’t expect it to be leaking soon, and if it does leak it should be just a drip drip kind of leak (at least initially). Where the sprayer connects to the hose is a bigger concern. It has an o-ring seal and the fitting is kept seated by screwing a plastic sleeve down against a stainless steel circlip. We’re only talking 50psi line pressure max (I have an inline pressure regulator outside), however if the fitting failed that would make a mess! I’ll keep tweaking it and yes, if I have a catastrophic failure, I’ll eat crow and post about it here.

Steve
J-Rooster
Explorer
Aug 31, 2013
It's innovated Steve
Geocritter
Explorer
Aug 30, 2013
Good point about the full time water pressure. If memory serves I once had an inline pressure regulator for an ice maker, maybe something like that could be adapted. I'll check it out. As for the OEM water valve, it was a piece of junk and deserved to be discarded. I'm sure it would last an adequate time (at least through the warranty) if you only used the RV a week or two out of the year, but using it full time is a different story. I saw nothing but problems with the pathetic arrangement that the manufacturer had built. I do agree that some type of inline shut-off (that can be easily accessed) is a good idea and I'll look into it.
Steve
Peg_Leg
Explorer
Aug 30, 2013
Now for a nice holder on the wall for the sprayer.