Over heating

mowermech wrote:

enblethen wrote:
Have you checked for debris between the radiator and AC condenser?
If you decide to replace the thermostat, get one that fails in the open position.

Yes, most assuredly check for bug guts and dirt on the radiator behind the A/C condenser!
I once had a 1977 Pace Arrow Class A with the 440 dodge engine that overheated frequently. I, too, did "everything": New fan clutch, new thermostat, pressure washed the radiator fins, put cooling system cleaner in, tested the water pump, pretty much all the things that have been recommended in this thread.
It still boiled over.
I decided it was time to give up and take the radiator to the shop for a thorough cleaning, inside and out. When I moved the A/C condenser aside to access the radiator, it was very obvious why it was overheating; the radiator fins looked like a mud wall! NO air could get through there at all!
I removed the radiator, took it to a known good shop, and had it thoroughly cleaned, then reinstalled it. No more overheating.
While doing them probably wasn't a total waste of time, everything else I did could have been avoided if I had checked that first!
Good luck.

Thank you for your insight I will have to try that fist before I take it in to have it checked out.

mowermech wrote:

enblethen wrote:
Have you checked for debris between the radiator and AC condenser?
If you decide to replace the thermostat, get one that fails in the open position.

Yes, most assuredly check for bug guts and dirt on the radiator behind the A/C condenser!
I once had a 1977 Pace Arrow Class A with the 440 dodge engine that overheated frequently. I, too, did "everything": New fan clutch, new thermostat, pressure washed the radiator fins, put cooling system cleaner in, tested the water pump, pretty much all the things that have been recommended in this thread.
It still boiled over.
I decided it was time to give up and take the radiator to the shop for a thorough cleaning, inside and out. When I moved the A/C condenser aside to access the radiator, it was very obvious why it was overheating; the radiator fins looked like a mud wall! NO air could get through there at all!
I removed the radiator, took it to a known good shop, and had it thoroughly cleaned, then reinstalled it. No more overheating.
While doing them probably wasn't a total waste of time, everything else I did could have been avoided if I had checked that first!
Good luck.

I have checked for bugs it has a clear path but I might have to take it in to have the radiator checked
Thanks for you for the information.

enblethen wrote:
Have you checked for debris between the radiator and AC condenser?
If you decide to replace the thermostat, get one that fails in the open position.

Yes, most assuredly check for bug guts and dirt on the radiator behind the A/C condenser!
I once had a 1977 Pace Arrow Class A with the 440 dodge engine that overheated frequently. I, too, did "everything": New fan clutch, new thermostat, pressure washed the radiator fins, put cooling system cleaner in, tested the water pump, pretty much all the things that have been recommended in this thread.
It still boiled over.
I decided it was time to give up and take the radiator to the shop for a thorough cleaning, inside and out. When I moved the A/C condenser aside to access the radiator, it was very obvious why it was overheating; the radiator fins looked like a mud wall! NO air could get through there at all!
I removed the radiator, took it to a known good shop, and had it thoroughly cleaned, then reinstalled it. No more overheating.
While doing them probably wasn't a total waste of time, everything else I did could have been avoided if I had checked that first!
Good luck.

mabynack wrote:
A good radiator shop can give you a better diagnosis. They can put a pressure gauge on the radiator to see if you have a leak or if the head gasket is leaking. They'll also check the radiator cap to make sure it's holding the correct pressure.

Sometimes the radiator cores get clogged and back flushing isn't enough to remove the gunk. You might need to get the radiator re-cored or replaced. An easy way to check it is to get one of the 15 dollar IR temperature guns and check the temperature of different parts of the radiator. If there are cool spots on the radiator it indicates that it's clogged.

This is a must have tool with a hot running 454. To add some detail to maybacks post. Get the eng up to operating temps then shoot the inlet on the top of the radiator and take a reading every 4 ins from top to bottom in a grid pattern. Radiators usually block in the center so if you see colder temps in a circular pattern you know you have blockage. On mine I had a deta T of 50 degrees from top to bottom. I thing you need to see at least 30 degrees difference to have a functioning radiator. In addition you can shoot the sensor in the LH head and compare that reading to your thermostat housing temp then look at you dash gauge they should be close, the temp sensor and gauge should be the same and your housing a little less. After you climb a hill does the temp recover quickly as you go down? Does it overheat at idle on a hot day? There are a lot of things you can do to cool a hot running 454 but start with the basic things first, then post back with your answers.

If the fan clutch was stored in the wrong position, the fluid may have moved inside. The last one I changed on my WH 8.1L engine took almost 50 miles before it started operating properly. It was stamped this side up and I guess they meant it.
You also probably have electric fans that should be coming on when the temps start to rise.

A good radiator shop can give you a better diagnosis. They can put a pressure gauge on the radiator to see if you have a leak or if the head gasket is leaking. They'll also check the radiator cap to make sure it's holding the correct pressure.

Sometimes the radiator cores get clogged and back flushing isn't enough to remove the gunk. You might need to get the radiator re-cored or replaced. An easy way to check it is to get one of the 15 dollar IR temperature guns and check the temperature of different parts of the radiator. If there are cool spots on the radiator it indicates that it's clogged.

FIRE UP wrote:

Scott & Jill wrote:
I have a workhorse chaise with the big block 454 engine I have replaced the clutch fan and flushed the radiator but the engine keeps going into the red dose anyone have this problem and if so do you know a way to get it to stay cool any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank You

Well,
You've done some measures to alleviate this issue but, apparently they've not worked so far. As has been suggested, I'd check the thermostat and, since water pumps CAN GO BAD, I'd verify that yours is working proficiently. You can do this by, starting with a cold engine, and the radiator cap OFF. As the engine is started, no coolant will flow, during the warmup process.

Then, if your thermostat is working correctly, it will open at a predesignated temp, usually around 180 or up, depending on what's called for in the specs. When it opens, you'll see a rush of coolant zoom by the opening in the radiator. That is an indication that your water pump is pumping the water/coolant, through the system.

Then not too long after that coolant begins to flow, it shuts down pretty much completely. The reason is, the cold coolant that was sitting in the radiator, that is now beginning to flow into the engine, triggers the thermostat to close.

This is all presupposing that your T-stat is opening and closing, not only on time and, at the appropriate temp but, is FULLY OPENING TOO. I've seen them barely crack open and, that's a really restricted flow.

One more thing. About 99.9999% of the bottom radiator hoses come with internal springs in them. In case you don't know what the spring is for, it's wound around the inside of the hose, to keep the hose from collapsing when suction from the water pump, is pumping the coolant through the engine and radiator.

If that hose deteriorates to a point that, it allows the hose to collapse, that will severely restrict the coolant flow which, in tern will cause higher engine temps.

I've seen many times, that spring IS GONE due to corrosion and rust. it doesn't happen all that often in todays engines because of improvements in coolant chemical makeup and, improved milage for coolant. But, never the less, it's something to check and make sure it's working correctly. Good luck.
Scott

Thank you for the Information it will be helpful.

lawrosa wrote:

BTPO1 wrote:
I know that this might be a long shot, but is the water pump working? I had one once go bad internally and had nothing coming out of the weep hole. I have also heard of the pump suction hose collapsing under load which would restrict water flow through the system. JMO

Water pumps always work. They dont stop working. They just leak when the seal goes bad out the weep hole...

I had one rust internally. The blades were half the size they should have been. Changed the pump and all is well again.

Scott & Jill wrote:
I have a workhorse chaise with the big block 454 engine I have replaced the clutch fan and flushed the radiator but the engine keeps going into the red dose anyone have this problem and if so do you know a way to get it to stay cool any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank You

Well,
You've done some measures to alleviate this issue but, apparently they've not worked so far. As has been suggested, I'd check the thermostat and, since water pumps CAN GO BAD, I'd verify that yours is working proficiently. You can do this by, starting with a cold engine, and the radiator cap OFF. As the engine is started, no coolant will flow, during the warmup process.

Then, if your thermostat is working correctly, it will open at a predesignated temp, usually around 180 or up, depending on what's called for in the specs. When it opens, you'll see a rush of coolant zoom by the opening in the radiator. That is an indication that your water pump is pumping the water/coolant, through the system.

Then not too long after that coolant begins to flow, it shuts down pretty much completely. The reason is, the cold coolant that was sitting in the radiator, that is now beginning to flow into the engine, triggers the thermostat to close.

This is all presupposing that your T-stat is opening and closing, not only on time and, at the appropriate temp but, is FULLY OPENING TOO. I've seen them barely crack open and, that's a really restricted flow.

One more thing. About 99.9999% of the bottom radiator hoses come with internal springs in them. In case you don't know what the spring is for, it's wound around the inside of the hose, to keep the hose from collapsing when suction from the water pump, is pumping the coolant through the engine and radiator.

If that hose deteriorates to a point that, it allows the hose to collapse, that will severely restrict the coolant flow which, in tern will cause higher engine temps.

I've seen many times, that spring IS GONE due to corrosion and rust. it doesn't happen all that often in todays engines because of improvements in coolant chemical makeup and, improved milage for coolant. But, never the less, it's something to check and make sure it's working correctly. Good luck.
Scott

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