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jdrocci
Explorer
Jul 31, 2013

P30 Brake Lockup - Solved

I have a 1988 Pace Arrow on a P30 chassis with 4-wheel disk brakes. Recently, the brakes have been getting pretty mushy and brake fluid has been disappearing regularly with no external signs of leaks. I refilled and bled the system several times, but the problem only got worse. Finally, last weekend, I installed a brand new (not rebuilt) master cylinder which I bench-bled first, filled with DOT4 fluid and bled all wheel cylinders.

When I took her out for a test drive, after just a few miles, the pedal started to rise until there was no free-travel at all and then locked up solid. I determined that both front wheels were hot and locked up. I opened the passenger-side bleeder valve, bled about an ounce of fluid out and the system immediately returned to normal. I chalked it up to overfilling the MC, which I know I did.

The next day, I took her on a 100 mile run and all was fine on the open road. However, when I got into slower-speed secondary roads, it locked up again. Another bleed-off of fluid and I got to my destination. On the way home, the same thing happened: it locked up when driving on secondary roads but was OK on the highway for 100 miles. As I approached my neighborhood, I could feel the pedal coming up though.

My first reaction was that it was due to overfilling the MC, causing a pressure lock when the hot fluid expanded, even though I never had this issue with the old MC. Some here have mentioned deteriorating flexible hoses, but I would expect a single hose failure to only lock up one side. Right now, I'm thinking of purging and refilling the fluid on the theory there might be moisture contamination causing excessive expansion when hot. I really don't want to believe it could be the brand new MC, and I can't rationalize how this could be caused by any MC failure I can conjure. I think a key clue is that it only happens after the engine is good and warm at local road speeds where there isn't as much air flow cooling the system.

Any suggestions appreciated

Joe
  • All

    Today I got a chance to get underneath again and I think I solved the problem. I did 2 things, either of which or both cured it:

    1) I loosened the bolts holding the MC to the booster and inserted flat washers between the 2 assemblies as shims.

    2) Noticing that the brake pedal linkage seemed to be pre-loading the booster input rod a bit, I adjusted it a couple turns until there was noticeable slack,

    I took it out for a long ride on local roads and there doesn't seem to be any more evidence of the pedal rising. The lockup is gone.

    Thanks for all the suggestions

    Joe
  • Now that you adjusted the linkage, you can remove the washers.

    Bad hoses can cause the brakes to lockup at all speeds, not just low speeds.

    All mc's have a pressure relief hole, it called the fluid return hole, but it must be open when the brakes are off. Properly adjusted brakes can not build up pressure from overfilling the mc or boiling off water.
  • Islander


    Thanks for the input. For my education and for all the others promoting the hose theory, can you explain how a single defective hose can cause a problem on more than one wheel?

    Thanks
    Joe
  • I have repaired this same issue on many vehicles. The front rubber brake lines swell and block off the brake fluid from returning to the master cylinder.

    I realize from your last response this was not your issue but for those asking why are both lines going bad at the same time. It's because they deteriorate at the same rate. You will not even notice a brake pull. I've pulled these lines off and could not even blow air through them. What most customers notice is their brake pads wear out quickly?

    Dave